2018 Hair Goals

weavepat

Well-Known Member
  • regimen goals:
    • Have a wash day every week as long as my schedule permits.
  • challenge participation goals:
    • CP inspired regimen challenge
  • product usage goals:
    • I bought what I hoped would be enough products to last all year so I'm just gonna work with my stash for as long as possible.
  • purchasing goals/budgeting goals:
    • I'm putting myself on a no buy unless the price of the item is less than $3 or I find a sale of at least 30% off. For products only. Since supplements also contribute to general wellness I will buy them with no restrictions.
  • style mastery goals:
    • Maybe I'll finally learn to cornrow this year
  • length goals:
    • Tailbone length by the end of the year
  • trimming schedule goals:
    • Trim every 4 months
  • scalp massaging goals:
    • Continue to massage scalp at least 4x per week
  • supplement-taking goals:
    • Take vitamins A,B,C,D,E. finish up the MSM, keep using protein powder, maybe try collagen.
  • water intake goals: 2 liters of water a day.
 

kupenda

Well-Known Member
-Full APL, maybe even MBL if there’s any weight to this inversion thing. I miss my length!

-Grow out this poor crown of mine. I think it needs protein more often than what I’ve been providing. It’s not like there’s been some moment that caused a bunch of breakage. It just happened after I stopped being in love with my hair

-Stop being so daggone lazy. It’s not like I don’t have the time to take care of my hair
 

sunnieb

Well-Known Member
In 2018 I will:

  • Clarify Shampoo/dc 1x weekly, cowash 1x weekly, honey dc 1x weekly
  • On nights my hair isn't washed, take time to moisturize, seal, set hair properly for next day's style, and sleep with scarf on.
  • Take biotin and iron pills daily.
  • Drink minimum of 80 oz of water daily (goal is 100 oz a day)
  • No soda after 12/31/17. This one will be HARD for me! I'm a Classic Coke addict :beer:
  • Be gentle with my hair at all times.
  • No more cheapy conditioners - I'm bagging up and getting rid of my Motions hair stuff. Didn't do well with my hair and they've changed the formula from when I used to use it back in the day anyway.
  • Keep my hair supplies in stock. I start getting lazy when I allow myself to run out of product.
  • My nape is severely damaged and I'm dealing with quarter-sized bald spots back there. By December 2018, I will have at least 5 inches of hair growth - it's beginning to fill in already.
  • Whenever I log onto LHCF, I will go to the hair forum and scan the first page. I got away from doing the basics to my hair because I stopped reading about hair.
  • Aside from regular trims, I will not cut my hair to make the damaged areas look better. I'm lucky to have my vacation to find styles that cover the damage and accent the healthy hair I have left. Even with that, I'm itching a little to cut a few inches to get in line with the damage. I don't know why. I just need to hold on to what I have and work with that. I won't be able to wear buns or ponytails for a while and that's a huge adjustment for me. I am so not used to wearing my hair down everyday, but I'd look ridiculous trying to wear those styles right now.
Happy Hair Growing!
 

sunnieb

Well-Known Member
Doing some research from waaaaayyyy back in the LHCF days on Moisture/Protein balance. I'm going to post Sistaslicks's hair articles if I can find them. They had so much info and the links to the articles don't work anymore. Hoping to stay focused throughout 2018.

@shortdub78 I'll tag you since we are both dealing with our damaged hair right now.
 

sunnieb

Well-Known Member
@shortdub78

Breakage and Shedding


Understanding the difference between breakage and shedding is an important part of any healthy hair regimen. Many people use these terms interchangeably to refer to any hair that falls from the head. In its truest sense, shed hair is hair that has reached the end of its growing cycle and naturally falls from the scalp along with its root attached. The root is a tiny white bulb on the scalp originating end. If a hair does not possess this white bulb, then it is not a naturally shed hair, rather, a broken one. Shed hair tends to be longer in length than broken hairs which are generally short pieces of varying lengths. If you have stretched your relaxer for a great number of weeks, your shed hair will have the curly new growth present on the area next to the bulb, and you will be able to see where the relaxed hair begins. Some find that garlic shampoos or products with garlic extracts help curb shedding. But remember, shedding is a natural, internal process and may not respond to topical, external treatments. So don't be alarmed if nothing works for you. Changes in diet, hormone imbalances, birth control pills, and pregnancy can also affect the rate at which hair is shed.

Breakage on the other hand is not natural, and is an indication of an imbalance of important forces within the hair strand. Broken hairs do not fall naturally from the head, but are typically a sign of mishandling or abuse. The proper treatments, will help stop breakage in its tracks.
 

sunnieb

Well-Known Member
@shortdub78

Protein

Protein is what gives the hair its strength and structure. Hair is about 70% keratin protein by nature. Protein is found most prevalently in products like instant conditioners (bargain brands like Suave and V05), leave in conditioners, protein conditioner treatments, and even some moisturizers.


Moisturizers

Moisturizers are products that are water-based and nourish your hair deep within the strand. Water is the ultimate moisturizer so waterbased products are best for really getting the best moisture benefit. Products with moisturizing properties tend to be your conditioners and other water-based products. Moisturizers may also be protein-based, but these protein based moisturizers do not have the moisturizing benefit that moisture-based moisturizers have. Good moisturizers will not contain ingredients like petrolatum, mineral oil, or lanolin. These are cheap product fillers. Be wary of products that claim moisturizing benefits and contain these ingredients. There is nothing moisturizing about them! Petrolatum and mineral oil are sealants and have the potential to suffocate the hair and scalp and seal out the moisture it needs.

Sealing in your Moisturizers:
Our hair naturally contains moisture, but because our hair is also naturally porous, keeping the moisture inside is a difficult task. Sources of outside moisture, or external moisture supplementation, are a must for black hair. Water molecules and moisture from these supplemental moisturizing products easily pass into the hair shaft, but they pass out just as easily. The moisture you apply needs to held in by something. Oil.
A light coating of oil on top will help seal the moisture inside. Oils are made of large molecules. These molecules are too large to absorbed by the hair strand. Applying oils to the hair and scalp will coat them and trap moisture that is inside on the inside and moisture that is outside on the outside. The key is to lock in the moisture within the strands with your oil. If you use oils without a moisturizer or before one, the oil will seal the moisture out of the hair strand and lead to eventual dryness. This technique of moisturizing and sealing has really been helpful to me and is a resonating hallmark of my regimen. Moisturizing success is all in the order in which you apply your products.

REMEMBER! Oils DO NOT Moisturize.
Perhaps a words like "nourish" would be better than moisturize. If I had a nickel for every time someone asked me to recommend a good oil that moisturizes, I would be rich! Oil alone will not and cannot moisturize within the hair shaft. An oil can only coat the outside of the strand, and give it shine- the illusion of moisture. Again, the molecules that make oil are much too large to penetrate through all of the cuticle layers. The cuticle layers can be as few as 6 layers or many as 15 or more layers thick. Oil molecules are hydro-phobic which means they repel and do not readily mix with water. Remember, if you apply an oil product to your hair before you have added a moisturizing product, you have created a seal on your hair strand that water and moisture cannot penetrate.
 

sunnieb

Well-Known Member
@shortdub78

When the Balance Tips, You Must Wet Assess


Too much of a good thing can be a bad thing. Hair is not exempt from this old adage. Growing out your hair is a constant battle between maintaining an even protein and moisture balance. Breakage is the result of the hair chemistry being thrown off balance.

The Importance of Wet Assessment


Though health assessments can be performed on dry hair, determining your cause of breakage is often easiest on wet hair. Hair in its wet state exudes the basic properties of hair---elasticity and strength, excellently. In fact, these qualities are often exaggerated on wet hair. Thorough and frequent wet assessments will help you maintain your hair's health and condition.

Hair in its optimal condition will not break when wet unless undue stress is placed upon it through aggressive combing or detangling. A balanced and healthy hair strand will stretch and break only under undue, or unusual types of pulling stress. Balanced hair will feel soft and supple, yet strong while wet. When you comb through it when wet, it should resist excess stretching and will hardly break if you are careful. Over time, and with trial and error, you will be able to tell what is normal stress for your hair.
If your hair does indeed break when wet, the way the hair breaks under these conditions will give you a sure indication of whether more moisture or protein is required to regain the proper balance.

How Do I Perform a Proper Wet Assessment?

It will be difficult for you to wet assess your hair by holding a single strand and pulling on both ends. That type of stress would be considered "undue" stress, because no single hair is ever really subjected to that sort of tension at one time. Any strand of hair (healthy or not) that you pull on by both ends has the potential to snap depending on the pressure you apply to it. Hair should be wet assessed by the normal act of combing though it or touching-testing it.


Wet Assessment Break Down


If your hair:


(Wet or Dry) Stretches slighty/returns to original length /no breaking= you are balanced just stick with maintaining!

(Wet ot Dry) Stretching a little more than normal then breaks= more protein

(Wet or Dry)Stretching, stretching, stretching/no breakage yet= more protein

(Wet)- Weak, gummy, mushy, limp hair= more protein

(Wet or Dry) Very little/no stretching then breakage= more moisture

(Dry) Rough/tough/hard/tangly/brittle hair= more moisture

Unsure= err on the side of moisture

For those of you just starting out on your journey to healthier head of hair, I recommend you begin with a more moisture friendly regimen before you incorporate the protein aspect. The reason being, many of us (before our hair care awakening) have naturally moisture deficient hair care routines and regimens- especially those with no regimen at all. Rarely have I seen a woman have hair problems that are a result of over-conditioning her hair and too much moisture. I can guarantee you that almost 99% of the time, poor moisturizing and conditioning are the issues that spawn our hair care interventions.
 

sunnieb

Well-Known Member
When the Balance is thrown off by too much protein:
Hair that is shifted too far on the protein side will break easier, both wet and dry, because it lacks elasticity. Hair that breaks with very little tension or stretching is moisture deficient. Any type of stretching or tension will break it because the protein goes in and adds structure to the hair. Too much structure will make the hair rigid, decrease its elasticity, leave it brittle and prone to breakage. If this describes your hair at any time listen up! To correct this imbalance, you will need to go into a simple deep conditioning and moisturizing regimen. You may not be doing "protein treatments" per se, but you may be using other products that are protein heavy ingredient wise. I would watch out for protein in common products like leave in conditioners, moisturizers,gels, and instant conditioners like Suave and V05. Protein hides in alot of everyday products- so avoid those for a few weeks until your moisture balance is corrected. This will give your hair a chance to even out the protein/moisture balance.

Should I schedule my protein treatments in advance?
I do not advise "protein-ing" on a specific schedule, simply because our hair is seasonal. Setting aside a week or two in your regimen for protein conditioning is just not effective at addressing your hair needs as they arise. It doesn't know or understand our "schedules." Its needs and wants change from day to day, week to week. The only product you must adhere to a schedule is the Aphogee Treatment for Damaged Hair because it can only be used every 6 weeks or so because of its strength. The other treatments in between that one should only be done as you need them. Sometimes that might be weekly, other times it may be every 2 or 3 weeks! Only your hair can dictate that to you. I'm sure you've seen the threads where I discuss how to tell when your hair needs more protein- or when it needs more moisture. There are very specific ways to tell =) Once you get to know your hair more and more, it will be like second nature! Scheduling is good for when you are just starting out and getting into the groove, but you'll soon start to see that your hair often has its own plan for when you need different things for it! Then, scheduling kind of becomes useless in the grand scheme of hair care things. It also prevents you from truly developing an understanding of your own hair because instead of looking for certain cues and signs, you are looking at the calendar. Protein-ing on a schedule can eventually lead to protein overload if you aren't careful! It is so much harder to bounce back from an overload of protein than it is an overload of moisture/conditioning.

How much is too much?
I totally agree that relaxed ladies need more protein. If you are relaxed or color treated, those processes have compromised the protein structure of your hair--so you kinda need the supplemental protein. Not everyone needs protein though, some naturals can live without it...

For the relaxed ladies though, It's like we've all sustained different degrees of "damage" from the relaxing processes. Some people's hair is more protein deficient by nature (from the coloring/relaxing) so they require more to keep the balance in tact. Relaxing and coloring breaks protein bonds so depending on the type and degree of relaxer and level on bond breakage you will need more or less protein than someone else. So you can't say weekly, daily, or monthly protein is too much or too little because we do not know the true condition and specific needs of your hair to start with. At the end of the day, you must experiment and get to know your own head of hair.

Some proteins are stronger than others, but daily or even weekly use of even the milder protein treatments may result in an imbalance between the protein and moisture levels within the hair strands in some people. Honestly, it's almost too hard to even go by the "types of proteins." You never know the percent composition of these products so though it may have a specific protein down the ingredient list, it might not be as strong as if it were higher on the ingredient list(greater percent composition). The protein in question could be 30% of the product or 0.3%! Who knows! You have to play around with different products to know how strong it is on your hair. You can't really say "Oh this is wheat protein so its gonna very light!" Or "this is animal protein, so its gonna be very heavy." It would be nice if that were true all the time, but because the product percent composition really plays such an important role, label reading can only do so much. For example, every product with keratin isn't going to feel the same way across the board. Just like every product that contains glycerine or water isn't going to feel the same! You must experiment and find your hair tolerance and it will vary from product to product, not necessarily protein to protein.

Another example, some people think Aphogee 2 minute is a mild to tough protein, but my hair tends to laugh at it and feel the exact same after using it. For me, I just experimented using different combinations of products to find out what my hair tolerance is.
 

sunnieb

Well-Known Member
When the Balance is thrown off by too much moisture:
Yes! There is such a thing as "over-conditioning" the hair. Hair that is shifted too far on the moisture side will be "super-elastic" and stretch more because it lacks a sound protein structure. Many ladies describe the feel of over-conditioned/over-moisturized hair as ?"mush-like" or "overly soft" when wet. It almost has a weak, limp spongy feel to it. Protein deficient hair will tend to pull and stretch along with the comb and then break. It will always stretch first then break which is the result of very low supplemental protein in the regimen. When this is the case, you will need some kind of protein to give the hair structure which will make it feel rigid (stronger) again. If your hair is stretching without returning, even if its not breaking you should use a light protein to correct this. When your hair stretches, the strand "thins" and becomes weaker across the cross section. It may not break right then at that very point in time, but stretched out of and beyond its shape, it is compromised and will eventually break at some other point. Your hair should be springing back to position. If it's stretching and stretching without breaking it may be your hair's way of telling you, "Hey, I need a little structure (protein) here! I'm getting waaaay too elastic, but not yet enough to break-- so do something now!" This is where a preventive maintenance protein application would come in. You don't have to wait for breakage to act. Your hair is telling you now! Start light, and work from there. You may not need a heavy treatment just yet.

And, you don't have to get all of your protein from a "treatment" per se or conditioner either. You can always throw in protein based leave in conditioners like (Infusium23) or waterbased moisturizers like (Cantu's Breakcure/or Elasta QP mango butter) to help you maintain the balance within your regimen. This way you can get a little or a lot without relying on one product.
 

sunnieb

Well-Known Member
Finally found the article I was looking for! Links were posted everywhere, but not the actual article. I found it on the old Hairlista.com (no longer active) site and posted it here a while ago. Posting again to start 2018 on a good note......
_______________________________

Regimen Building for Newbies 101

The most important key to building a solid regimen is finding your own hair tolerance. Everyone's hair is unique. What works for someone may not work for you. Hair can be moisturized, supple one day and dry and brittle the next. It's important that you build your regimen around these factors and address these circumstances within your regimen.

Tip: The more you do to your hair chemically the more moisture and protein the hair will need.

YOU WILL NEED:
1 Moisturizing Shampoo. This should be used 1-2x/week depending on your schedule. Choose a shampoo that is Sodium/Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate free. These ingredients tend to strip the hair making it feel squeaky clean. These shampoo's listed below, leave the hair detangled and soft. Here are some examples:

Creme of Nature (red and green label) Shampoo, Kenra Moisturizing Shampoo, Elucence Moisture Benefits, Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo, Elasta QP Creme Conditioning Shampoo

1 Clarifying Shampoo. A clarifying shampoo should be used 1-2x/month if you are heavy handed with your products/oils etc. By using this shampoo you will remove dirt, build up. It's a great way of starting your hair off fresh for the month. Your hair should feel squeaky clean. Here are some examples:

Pantene Pro-V Purity Shampoo, Suave Shampoos, Nexxus aloe rid shampoo, Avalon Organics Lemon and shea butter, Ion clarifying shampoo

1 Moisturizing Conditioner & 1 Protein Conditioner.
You should follow up with one of these conditioners after every wash. Use either one depending on what your hair needs at the time. I would recommend deep conditioning the hair for 30-45mins preferably with heat (hooded dryer). Protein conditioners are used for rebuilding the hair and giving it strength. Protein conditioners should be followed by a moisturizing deep conditioner to restore moisture and elasticity to the hair. Here are some examples of moisturizing conditioners:

Elucence Moisture Balancing Conditioner, Silk Elements Moisturizing Treatment, KeraCare Humecto, Mizani Moisturefuse, Elasta QP DPR-11, Creme of Nature Nourishing Conditioner, Kenra Moisturizing Conditioner

Here are some examples of Protein Conditioners:

ORS Hair Mayo, Aphogee 2 min reconstructor, Nexxus Keraphix, Affirm 5 n 1, Aphogee 2 Step, Nexxus Emergencee, Motions CPR, Elasta QP Anti Breakage Serum

1 Leave-in conditioner. This should be used after washes or as a daily moisturizer. Here are some examples:

Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in, Elasta QP H-Two Leave-in, Herbal Essences Long Term Relationship Leave-in, Cantu Shea Butter, Salerm 21, Lacio Lacio

Water based moisturizer (1 Moisturizer)
. Use daily to hydrate the hair. I recommend using your moisturizer 1-2x/day (morning & night). Here are some examples:

Moisturizing: S-Curl, Hollywood Beauty Olive & Carrot Oil, ORS Olive Oil, ORS Carrot Oil, Wave Nouveau Finishing Lotion Protein: Cantu Shea butter, Elasta QP Mango Butter, Profective Healthy ends

Natural Oils are used for sealing in water based moisturizers. Add a light coating of oil to the ends of the hair and work your way up. Don't over do it now!!

Here are some examples: Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Extra Virgin Coconut Oil, Jojoba Oil, Safflower Oil, Castor Oil


Basic Regimen to Get You Started!


You Will Need:

1 Clarifying Shampoo
1 Moisturizing Shampoo
1 Moisturizing Deep Conditioner
1 Protein Deep Conditioner
A Leave-in Conditioner
1 Moisturizer
1 Natural Oil

Wide tooth comb
Satin/Silk Scarf and/or Satin Bonnet

- Shampoo your hair with a moisturizing shampoo 1-2x/week (Preferably sulfate free)
- Use a moisturizing deep conditioner with heat (At least 30mins) after every shampoo
- Always follow up with a leave-in conditioner
- Use a water-based moisturizer 2x/day (Morning & night) then seal in the moisture with a natural oil
- Always wear a satin/silk scarf or bonnet to bed
- *If You Are Relaxed* Relax at least every 8 weeks (If You can go beyond that, even better)
- Do a protein treatment when needed (Whenever the hair feels very limp, mushy, overly soft etc.)
- Trim when needed
- Use a Clarifying shampoo (remove buildup) 1-2x/month (depending on the amount of product you use)
- Use a wide tooth comb to comb/detangle your hair. You'll experience less breakage.
 

Sharpened

A fleck on His Sword
I'm 100% with you.... And in that order! I' hoping that if I really love into over drive I will make WL by late March or April! I' praying...
You will hit WL before spring, barring any trims. I am trying a couple of large clips to pin down my wash 'n' go under a bonnet; I need to get some more.
 

nothidden

TeamNatural95-Fractals/Zigzags
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GGsKin

Well-Known Member
I'd like to be able to put the scisssors down for at least 2 months, for a start. I aim to achieve fuller ends and some noticeable length this year. I'd also like this shedding period I'm going through at the moment to ease up with quickness please.
 

Chicoro

5 Year Shea Anniversary: Started Dec 16th, 2016!
I'm shifting my focus a little. Instead of saying I want a certain length, which I don't necessarily control, I am focusing on what I can control.

I plan to:
  • Do my Hair Ends Routine every night
  • Continue with my No Comb Process
  • Do Protein Treatments Every 2 Months
  • Protect my hair at night
These things I can control. I hope they result in what I can't control, which is a nice gain in length!
 

keranikki

Natural, 3abc/4a, Fine, medium density
I'm shifting my focus a little. Instead of saying I want a certain length, which I don't necessarily control, I am focusing on what I can control.

I plan to:
  • Do my Hair Ends Routine every night
  • Continue with my No Comb Process
  • Do Protein Treatments Every 2 Months
  • Protect my hair at night
These things I can control. I hope they result in what I can't control, which is a nice gain in length!

I just started the No Comb Process from a post you made in another thread. I have noticed significantly less breakage because of it. I only use the end of a rat tail comb to part my, then I separate it with my fingers. This along with my shea regimen, I believe, will assist me with retention. Thank you!
 

nothidden

TeamNatural95-Fractals/Zigzags
I literally rolled over and noticed the vibrating scalp massager l bought this time last year. I tried it out this morning, after my shampoo, and could barely put it down. My scalp felt so good. Hopefully it felt stimulated enough afterwards that it'll kick out more growth. I plan to use it daily when I'm just lounging. Hopefully my consultant will comment on my growth during next Saturday's re-ti.
 

Chicoro

5 Year Shea Anniversary: Started Dec 16th, 2016!
I just started the No Comb Process from a post you made in another thread. I have noticed significantly less breakage because of it. I only use the end of a rat tail comb to part my, then I separate it with my fingers. This along with my shea regimen, I believe, will assist me with retention. Thank you!

It sounds like it is already paying dividends for you and your hair! I'm glad it is working for you.
 

TamaraShaniece

Ayurvedic Life
Regimen Goals:
  • To create a more natural Ayurvedic simple regimen. Ex: Naptural85, CurlyProverbz. I already created a Rhassoul Clay wash and I LOVE IT. I want to try doctoring up hair masks.
  • 2018 goal is to be consistent. I felt like every wash day was different. Instead of using up my stash, I gave my products away.
Challenge Participation Goals
  • 2018 Ayurvedic Clay Mud Rice Rinse Challenge
  • 2018 APL Challenge
Consistency Goals
  • I want to be consistent at a minimum of weekly washes, sitting under a hooded dryer to deep condition, taking my vitamins, and growth oils.
  • I also want to be consistent on caring for my hair and not being lazy.
Style Mastery Goals
  • I want to master the 2 Strand Twist style. I’ve seen gorgeous 2-strand twist up dos and I want to create that look. I can’t twist...but I’ve gotten better and only getting better.
  • I definitely want to get creative with styling. I get lazy cause I can’t do my hair. I want YT videos and don’t know how people come up with simple easy hair styles. Halo braid style, sleek bun looks, etc.
Length Goals
  • Full APL by Dec 31, 2018 god willing.
Trimming Schedule Goals
  • TI want to trim every 3 months. I must say, my high porosity hair requires product testing to see what helps me retain moisture. Without moisture, my ends can get jacked up easily with results in horrible 2 strand twist. My recent trim resulted in great twists.
Massaging / Growth Oil /Inversion
  • I just ordered a vanity planet scalp massager. I want to use this 2-3x a week with my growth oil.
  • I want to use my Growth Oil 3x a week. I have plenty of Wild Growth, NJoy, Gro-Aut, and CocoVeda oils.
  • While I’ll my massaging my scalp and even rinsing my hair under cool water, would be a perfect time to throw an Inversion Method.
Supplement & Water Goals
  • I have chlorella, chlorophyll, etc and Curls Blissful Lengths Drink I want to take daily. I already missed week 1 but I have 3 bottles. I can keep 1 @ work and in my lunch bag.
  • Drinking a minimum of 2L of water
 

caribeandiva

Human being
I just started the No Comb Process from a post you made in another thread. I have noticed significantly less breakage because of it. I only use the end of a rat tail comb to part my, then I separate it with my fingers. This along with my shea regimen, I believe, will assist me with retention. Thank you!
Another one who started using the no comb process. I use my fingers for everything now! I’m trying to manipulate my hair as little as possible.
 
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