2018 Hair Regimen Development: Design, Rationale, Revision, Reflection

[YvetteWithJoy]

What is your hair care regimen?
What is the rationale (the why) underlying your regimen's steps, products, and schedule/frequency of tasks?

As the year proceeds, please use this thread to evaluate your regimen.

Research what revisions you feel you need to make to your regimen (if any), make those revisions, try the revised regimen, and then reflect!: Document what you notice, what you like, what went well, what you didn't like, and what all that you want to fare better, going forward.​

Please add pictures, links to sources of information, video links, etc. Pictures that might prove helpful include texture shots, style mastery photo checks (how does this style REALLY look? ), pictures of product combinations used, etc.

Happy hair growing, and happy regimen development/maintenance!

 

[faithVA]

I'm still working on my regimen but this is what I have so far.

I'm 4b Natural, with low porosity shoulder length hair.


Wash/Cowash/Water Rinse Day
I shampoo, cowash or water rinse every 7 to 8 days. I would do every 4 but it causes my color to fade too quickly and I only want to color my hair once a month. My scalp and my hair needs high doses of water frequently to stay moisturized. Mid-week moisturization does not really work for me.

I am using the Mane Choice Easy on the Curls line. My hair seems to like this line. I will use the shampoo and conditioner on shampoo days and the 3 in 1 on cowash days. After rinsing out the conditioner, I will massage the remaining water, smooth my hair down and twist it up. I will air dry for about 30 minutes. I then apply the leave-in and/or the restorative spray. I use either the Mane Choice or TGIN moisturizer, apply a pomade to my ends and put in flat twist using one of my gels.

In Between Moisture Sessions
In between shampoos/cowash/water rinse, I will be trying different things to moisturize my hair. I will be taking my hair out of flat twist and massaging as much water as I can into my scalp until it feels hydrated. I will then soak my ends in water and squeeze water into them. After that I will work water into my strands by massaging my strands. I may pull out my Q-Redew and see how that works. After steaming I will massage the water into my strands.

I will follow that with the Mane Choice Restorative Spray, either the Mane Choice or TGIN moisturizer, apply a pomade to my ends and put in flat twist using one of my gels.

Color
I will use Surya Brasil color once a month. This color works well for me.

Henna
I plan to do a henna/indigo treatment every 3 to 4 months.

DC
I don't DC often because I found that doing a DC weekly causes build up on my hair and dries my hair out. However, I do plan to do a DC once a month after one of my shampoos. I am using the Mane Choice or TGIN deep conditioners. I typically just keep it on for 30 minutes to an hour.

Mudwash
I plan do to a mudwash every 3 to 4 months before I do my henna/indigo session. I was using a sulfate shampoo prior but I think the mud wash will give me a very clean base.

Styling
I have committed to wearing the same flat twist style for at least 4 weeks and hopefully for 6 before switching. Each wash day or moisturizing day I put my hair back in the same style. This takes some of the stress out of wash day when I know exactly what I am going to do with my hair. It also helps me to see my progress over a few months. When I come back to a style after being away from it for a few months I can see my progress. With my shrinkage I can not always see my progress.

Other/Random Habits
I use the Mane Choice scalp oil on my scalp randomly. I use it at least once a week but I have no real schedule for using it.
I sometimes mist my scalp with the restorative spray but I don't do this on a schedule either.
I use the Mane Choice split end serum randomly.

 

[YvetteWithJoy]

My Hair's Characteristics

• natural
• normal to high porosity
• fine strands
• density: very high number of strands per square inch of scalp
• 4a mainly, possibly have some 4b areas in the back, and possibly have some 3c areas in the front

What I Want from My Hair Care Regimen

• the regimen keeps my scalp, strands, edges, and ends healthy, strong, hydrated, and thriving
• mechanical damage is as low as possible given that my hair can tangle very seriously, and given that I wear my hair out
• heat damage is virtually nonexistent
• retention of length increases is high
• breakage is super low
• tangling is low
• I can wear my hair out
• wash day can be done in 3 hours
• I can do the regimen myself, at home, no other hands needed
• I don't have to fully redo my hair too often (can simply refresh my hair for at least 5 days)
• most of the products/tools used are available on the ground

Baseline Regimen Design (Dated January 15, 2018)

(image enlarges upon click)


Rationale/Science behind This Regimen Design, Product Selection, Frequency of Actions, Etc.

I designed the regimen detailed above with the goal of achieving the things I listed above under "What I Want from My Hair Care Regimen."

The ingredients in the DIY hair tea, the heavy cream, the mist bodifier, and the shea amla parfait should achieve strengthening, hydration, moisturization, and sealing. The ingredients in the serum should provide protection to my ends. The DIY hair oil and the edge oil should stimulate growth. Vigorous scalp massaging should stimulate growth (especially along with regular exercise). Twisting, banding the twists to dry, and wearing twist-outs should keep my hair elongated enough to discourage tough tangles. The SM hipo mask and Curl Junkie lotion or conditioner should protect against mechanical damage during finger detangling and rake detangling. Chelating once a month gives me a clean slate so that my hair and scalp really receive the products' ingredients.

A surprise to me is that (for my hair) using a moisturizing shampoo (bar) goes far in generating healthy hair. That is a key, key component. Another surprise to me is that Shea butter -- over a glycerin-containing cream or mist . . . and UNDER a gel -- keeps my hair from tangling, even if it shrinks in a puff and gets dry and I wear it that way for days and days. WOW.

Finally, I will aim to maintain moisture-protein balance by deep conditioning with a DC containing both moisture and protein.​

Trichologist and medical doctor Susan McDonald has a video entitled "How to Achieve Moisture-Drenched Natural Hair." In it, she discusses issues with the LOC method, explains why the LCO method makes more sense, and then shares her 7-day protocol.​

Her 7-day protocol resonates with what a LOT of super long-haired naturals do. It's not exactly what some of them do, but the overlap is high. It has an additional step or two, plus she explains the rationale/science behind it.​

While the entire video is good in my opinion, some of the initial information is pretty well-known around these parts. She begins discussing her 7-day protocol at time stamp 55 minutes, 38 seconds, and that's where I've set the embedded video below to start.​

​

 

[Evolving78]

Relaxed
APL type 4a
I’m narrowing down to primarily using two product lines.
I plan on transitioning, but being a heat trained natural, at least until my scalp fully recovers. I love relaxed hair, but due to my Alopecia, I have spots where the chemicals comes directly in contact with my scalp. So I know I have to back away from the coloring and relaxer for at least 6-12 months.
I have products that can help me with my transition and I will be looking into using a system that will help facilitate the transition.

As of right now, I will wash and condition my hair 2 a week, this will change to 5 Days a week once I start using heat more.

 

[chassiecrane]

Ahhh a thread for me . I'm holding this spot while I continue developing one. Still digesting my hair analysis recommendations. It's been surprisingly hard to transition from searching for recommended products to searching for recommended ingredients.

 

[YvetteWithJoy]

Yesterday I predetangled with and prepooed with Shea Moisture hipo masque.

Tonight the plan is to implement my regimen above (in post #3) with the products in the photo below.

I'm excited to try Curl Junkie Repair Me dc for the first time. It'll also be my first time using the Taliah Waajid Protective Mist Bodifier (my "SCurl").

I will report back on how the product combination fared.

(Photo enlarges upon click.)

 

[sandy100]

Well, I've changed my Mind. I've decided to give up on relaxers. I don't have anything against relaxers, just how they are applied. At one salon I was going to the stylist didn't wash the relaxer out properly and it caused breakage at the back nape. My hair broke off so badly in that area til and I'm just not going to deal with that issue any longer. I feel I will have more control concerning my hair's health by eliminating that variable. I figured out what happen: Most stylist will wrap your neck with a towel and wrap the plastic cape around that. Then they apply the relaxer, ok ,then they take you to the wash bowl and rinse out the relaxer, but they leave that relaxer-soil towel around your neck so that relaxer gets back in your hair or the towel rides up and the hair at the nape is not washed properly. I'm just finished with it all. One stylist I use to go to would always change out the towel with a fresh one after rinsing the relaxer out and I didn't experience that problem.

 

[Evolving78]

Well, I've changed my Mind. I've decided to give up on relaxers. I don't have anything against relaxers, just how they are applied. At one salon I was going to the stylist didn't wash the relaxer out properly and it caused breakage at the back nape. My hair broke off so badly in that area til and I'm just not going to deal with that issue any longer. I feel I will have more control concerning my hair's health by eliminating that variable. I figured out what happen: Most stylist will wrap your neck with a towel and wrap the plastic cape around that. Then they apply the relaxer, ok ,then they take you to the wash bowl and rinse out the relaxer, but they leave that relaxer-soil towel around your neck so that relaxer gets back in your hair or the towel rides up and the hair at the nape is not washed properly. I'm just finished with it all. One stylist I use to go to would always change out the towel with a fresh one after rinsing the relaxer out and I didn't experience that problem.

How do you plan on transitioning, or are you gonna big chop right now?

 

[sandy100]

No, I'm to transition by making sure i keep my hair conditioned , moisturized and wear my hair in braids. I've done pretty well with no major shedding by keeping my hair braided. One key I've found is knowing how to take the braids down which i do by using a lot of conditioner and tooth picks.

do you have any suggestions?

 

[Evolving78]

No, I'm to transition by making sure i keep my hair conditioned , moisturized and wear my hair in braids. I've done pretty well with no major shedding by keeping my hair braided. One key I've found is knowing how to take the braids down which i do by using a lot of conditioner and tooth picks.

do you have any suggestions?

No suggestions! Seems you are on the right track. How long will you transition? Will you gradually cut off the relaxed ends take down session?
I like braid removal sprays. But I don’t keep braids in longer that 4-6 weeks. 6 weeks is pushing it for me.

 

[NappyNelle]

@faithVA How long have you been using the Surya Brasil color? Which shade(s) do you purchase?

 

[sandy100]

yes, gradually. My hair is shoulder length now, but thin. I'm going to take it slow and just get it trimmed every 12 weeks or whenever needed and let grow out long and thick.

 

[faithVA]

@faithVA How long have you been using the Surya Brasil color? Which shade(s) do you purchase?

I've only used it twice starting in December. I get the Dark Brown. My hair is a reddish brown so the Dark brown gives me a deeper shade. I'm thinking of buying the black also and adding a little to the Dark brown to get a little darker. Black alone may be too much for me.

So far I like it. It' holding up on my hair better than any semi permanent that I have tried.

 

[lalla]

My hair:
It's 4a, thick, medium strand. I am about 1 inch above waist length.

My regimen:
Every 12 to 4 weeks: Relax for 15 mins with affirm. I like to have some texture in my hair but not so much that it tangles.
Every 6 weeks: An Olaplex treatment, I use 1 &2.
Every 4 weeks: Aphogee 2 step followed by a moisturizing treatment under the streamer. I realized recently that my hair loves protein.
Every 10-14 days: Wash, deep conditione and rollerset. After two to three days, I start my moisturizing /growth routine.
Every day: Spray scalp with Xcel21, massage my scalp, use Scurl as a moisturizer from root to tip, then coat the hair in shea butter and bun. Xcel 21 actually increases growth, and the Scurl / shea butter mixture is excellent as it moisturizes and detangles. I've gotten very few new split ends since doing this and breakage is almost 0 (for me that's a maximum of 10 to 15 broken strands a day).

If Olaplex comes out with a relaxer, I am buying it. Apart from that I really don't see myself changing anything in my regimen.
I might add some ayurvedic herbs to my shea butter but that's it. I don't have much time to dedicate to my hair so this works great for me.

 

[faithVA]

I did my moisturizing steps today. If my hair was longer and easier to style, I would do this every 2 to 3 days. My scalp feels so much better.

I did 1 flat twist at a time. It would probably be faster if I took them all out and just did them over. I will try that next time.

I took down each flat twist and massaged warm water into the parts and into my scalp. I massaged Mane Choice Restorative Spray into my scalp and oiled my scalp with Mane Choice growth oil. My scalp breathed a sigh of relief.

I soaked my ends in warm water and on some sections that was enough water to massage into the strands. On thicker sections I massaged more water into the strands as needed. Because of product already on my hair water just sits on my strands so hopefully massaging it in helps some. I used Mane Choice Daily Seal on my hair and then used Carol Daughters Honey Mimosa on my ends.

I used TGIN gel to retwist my hair.

I'm good with the steps and products for my scalp. I'm not sure about any of the products after that. I will have to see how it goes.

My hair looked and felt good when I took it down so that is a plus. I may repeat this on Tuesday or Wednesday and leave my wash day until next Friday or Saturday.

 

[Evolving78]

I think I will maintain length between APL and BSB while I transition. I’m concerned with growth, but more to fill in my hair and help get rid of the relaxed ends.

 

[OnmyJourney13]

Hi All. I am finally at a point where I have a consistent regimen that works and want to stay on track. I have been a PJ for years so I am hoping this thread helps to keep me honest.

I am relaxed, high porosity and my hair has been cut into a neck length blunt bob for the past six months. My strands are fine/medium and very dense. My goal is to grow it out to healthy, thick APL with blunt ends and maintain that length.

My current regimen is as follows:

Wash weekly but alternate medium protein and herbal/Ayurvedic treatments.

Weeks 1 & 3 - Clarify with Elucense, protein treat with either Joico KPak Reconstructor or Tigi Dumb Blond Reconstructor, DC with various moisture DCs, ACV rinse, a liquid and creme leave in and heavy seal with a butter.

Weeks 2 & 4 - Fenugreek/aloe/rose/Brahmi mask/coconut milk on dry hair, mild poo to cleanse and quick moisture conditioner to hydrate and smooth (loving Sally’s GVP Matrix balm for this step). ACV rinse and same leave in and heavy sealing process.

I have been generally following this regimen (swapping in various products to test) for about 7 months now and my hair is stronger, shinier and thicker then it has ever been. Breakage is few and far between. My scalp feels better than it has in years. No itchies or soreness. I rarely have to m&s during the week and my curls last all week (this is a first). I also believe that this regimen is helping my porosity normalize.

I do have HG products in most of the major categories but I also want to work on using up this ridiculous stash. I also have to find out if all of my HG products play well with each other and will continue to help me achieve my health and styling goals. This is going to be fun! Thanks for having me.

 

[faithVA]

I plan to color my hair tomorrow so tonight I'm doing a mudwash and a deep condition. I usually shampoo before I color but I'm going to try just wetting my hair tomorrow and then applying the color. If that works, regimen will be
1. Mudwash
2. Deep condition for 30 to 45 minutes
3. Apply color
4. Apply leave-in
5. Let air dry
6. Apply remaining products to moisturize and seal
7. Put in flat twist.

I will update over the weekend. I hope it works.

 

[sarumoki]

My regimen is still a work in progress but here's what I got so far:

Wash Day

1.) Wash with Elasta QP shampoo, unless my scalp is feeling particularly itchy then I'll use peppermint soap
2.) Oil rinse, currently using sunflower oil
3.) At this point my hair is still in braids, so I take out the braids apply my DC and sit under the dryer for 30 min
4.) Wash out the DC, apply Elasta QP mango butter leave in, braid again, apply oil to my scalp/edges and dry my hair for 45-60 min

Daily Moisture

1.) Spray my braids with moisturizer (experimenting with different sprays)
2.) Soak my ends in grapeseed oil
3.) Massage my scalp with castor/eucalyptus oil

 

[OnmyJourney13]

Last week’s wash day was so-so. It was fenugreek mask week but I decided to experiment a bit. I turned the mask into a gloss with a Bobeam dc and used heat for ten minutes. Then I incorporated the Cantu Acv root rinse as a scalp treatment after the mask. My hair instantly tangled up and felt hard. My DC process softened everything up and made detangling a breeze but my hair is always very manageable after the mask. I’ve used the root rinse before so I think the heat was too much.

I used aphogee curlific LI and QB cocoa tree detangling ghee post wash and my hair is soft and moisturized six days later. I noticed a few tiny pieces while manipulating so I am not happy with the wash day. Looking forward to my reconstructor and dc this weekend.

 

[sunnieb]

@shortdub78 I'm delivert too! As I recover from a major setback, I'm taking more pics to track my progress.

My hair is just as coarse and dry as ever. I'm moisturizing and sealing every night. However, take a look at my hair Tuesday morning at work:


Looked ok overall, but also looking dry.

Here's my hair the morning after cowashing with WEN the night before:



Then later at work:



The difference is slight, but noticeable. This is with me doing nothing extra. Just sticking to my weekly hair routine.

Not wonder I had a setback!

I'll type up my full routine soon. Still under development.

 

[Evolving78]

@shortdub78 I'm delivert too! As I recover from a major setback, I'm taking more pics to track my progress.

My hair is just as coarse and dry as ever. I'm moisturizing and sealing every night. However, take a look at my hair Tuesday morning at work:
View attachment 422817

Looked ok overall, but also looking dry.

Here's my hair the morning after cowashing with WEN the night before:

View attachment 422819

Then later at work:

View attachment 422821

The difference is slight, but noticeable. This is with me doing nothing extra. Just sticking to my weekly hair routine.

Not wonder I had a setback!

I'll type up my full routine soon. Still under development.

I do see a difference too! Your top pic is my hair right now! LolI moisturized and sealed yesterday, but it’s dry this morning. I’m not ready to shampoo again, so I will cowash just to water the plant! Lol so I don’t know what’s going on with the Scurl anymore?

 

[faithVA]

I'm trying bantu knots on wet hair. If it works out, even just for stretching, I will make this part of my weekly regimen. I will dry in bantu knots to stretch and then put in flat twist. I will know tomorrow if it will work.

 

[YvetteWithJoy]

I keep reading that the only difference between a deep conditioner and regular, rinse out conditioner is slight. I'm not sure what (I'll google it soon).

That to say, I keep eyeing my HairVeda Red Tea Conditioner that I haven't used since the first time I tried it. It felt great, but I just don't have a use for RO conditioner outside of the rare times my hair feels rough post-wash. I'm thinking about trying it as my DC instead of my staple Shea Moisture Manuka Honey Masque.

 

[trueheartofgold]

@YvetteWithJoy, have you used the vatika frosting yet?

 

[Evolving78]

I’m trying to stretch my wash days. I shampoo too much in the colder months, so I’m trying to go for 5-7 days. I have OCD too, so I know that may play are part in that.

 

[YvetteWithJoy]

@YvetteWithJoy, have you used the vatika frosting yet?

I tried it as a prepoo. Coconut oil alone, in general, is just so-so for me as a prepoo. I like the Vatika Frosting in terms of it being an ayurvedic coconut oil. But as of today I don't feel the need to repurchase it. I will continue to use it in my DIY CurlyProverbz oil mix until it's gone.

 

[YvetteWithJoy]

Regimen update:

Shea butter is still keeping tangles at bay. Yay!!!

I don't like the Taliah Waajid Protective Mist Bodifier beneath Shea butter as much as I like HairVeda Red Tea Heavy Cream under Shea Butter. The former got dry fast. The latter was moist and juicy for days and days.

 

[VictoriousBrownFlower]

I've recently changed a few things in my reggie and feel they are really going to improve my hair growth this yr

What is your hair care regimen?

Wash once a wk

Wash routine:
Take down hair one twist at a time and gently detangle each section as I go along
Shampoo with sulfate shampoo to thoroughly clean all buildup
Dc with moisture rich dc or moisture rich dc with neutral protein filler when in need of protein
Detangle again as I apply dc to section to ensure fully distributed throughout
Apply heat cap for at least 30 min
Rinse with cool water apply leave in
double seal with jbco and shea butter and style 90% of time in twists and occassionally in wash and go or braidout.

What is the rationale (the why) underlying your regimen's steps, products, and schedule/frequency of tasks?

detangling before washing to limit shedding breakage and tangling during wash process
Using a sulfate shampoo because it allows my products to thoroughly penetrate hair
Using protein as needed to keep my hair balanced and strong
Using a heating cap to lift the cuticle for products to thoroughly penetrate and nourish the hair after shampooing
Rinsing with cool water to close cuticle
Applying leave in to keep hair moisturized until next wash day
Double sealing to ensure hair is and remains nourished and moisturized
Protective styling in twists so I don't have to worry about my hair til next wash day

 

[YvetteWithJoy]

I've recently changed a few things in my reggie and feel they are really going to improve my hair growth this yr

What is your hair care regimen?

Wash once a wk

Wash routine:
Take down hair one twist at a time and gently detangle each section as I go along
Shampoo with sulfate shampoo to thoroughly clean all buildup
Dc with moisture rich dc or moisture rich dc with neutral protein filler when in need of protein
Detangle again as I apply dc to section to ensure fully distributed throughout
Apply heat cap for at least 30 min
Rinse with cool water apply leave in
double seal with jbco and shea butter and style 90% of time in twists and occassionally in wash and go or braidout.

What is the rationale (the why) underlying your regimen's steps, products, and schedule/frequency of tasks?

detangling before washing to limit shedding breakage and tangling during wash process
Using a sulfate shampoo because it allows my products to thoroughly penetrate hair
Using protein as needed to keep my hair balanced and strong
Using a heating cap to lift the cuticle for products to thoroughly penetrate and nourish the hair after shampooing
Rinsing with cool water to close cuticle
Applying leave in to keep hair moisturized until next wash day
Double sealing to ensure hair is and remains nourished and moisturized
Protective styling in twists so I don't have to worry about my hair til next wash day

I love your regimen, the succinct way you wrote it out, and the super succinct way you documented the rationale of each step. I can see these steps leading to strength and retention.