Very Interesting Article

Paris Belle

Active Member
This is a very long and interesting article. I found it on the same site that someone recently posted a link from. What do you all think? In some respects it goes against the things we tend to do for our hair... /images/graemlins/blush.gif

Quench the Thirst of Frizzy Hair

By Diana Dudas
Diana is an expert in this field and has had at least 28 years experience beauty industry. She has answered over 2000 questions for allexperts.com and has had her work published in many well respected magazines on and off line. She will be happy to answer your questions which you can submit to CosmeticWeb and we will either publish the answer or forward to you.

Visit her website at www.razzamatazz.net
I receive literally hundreds of emails a week, worldwide, pertaining to various hair care problems. Most of these emails come from frustrated frizzy haired ladies and gents. It seems to be such a mystery" why is my hair so frizzy?", "What can be done to calm my poufy hair?", Why is my hair so dry?" "Why does my hair feel so coarse?"
Well, in this article I hope to cover some of the main reasons as to why many of us suffer with the affliction better known as THE FRIZZIES! But more often than not, the cause of the problems mentioned above, is a moisture deficiency!
Oil and Water...
90% of us suffer with dry brittle or frizzy hair because our hair is deficient of (moisture) WATER! There is a certain preconceived notion that has been passed on from generation to generation. That is the idea that our hair is dry, because we are lacking in natural oils. We are told that if we nurture our hair by brushing vigorously 100 times a day, with an all-natural bristle brush, or if we pamper our hair with hot oil treatments or smother out hair with cholesterols. If we do all of these things, then we are sure to be blessed with beautiful, shiny and healthy locks. This might be the case, if you have young virgin (hair that is not chemically treated) hair. But this is certainly not the case, once you have impaled your tresses, with harsh chemicals such as bleaches and alkaline permanents.
Or if you have naturally curly hair,

Naturally Curly Hair...
Those of us with curly hair, YES! I too have curly hair; have these curls, because of a curvature of the hair follicles .A normal hair follicle under a microscope would be seen as perfectly straight. However we have a definite bend in ours. This causes us to have natural curls. When the hair curves it compels the cuticle (the outer layer of the hair) to lift.
The cuticle...
Under a microscope, A cuticle is similar in appearance to shingles on a roof. When the hair is in good conditioner and has good porosity the tiles or cuticle layers are tight together and perfect in shape. When hair is in bad conditioner or has poor porosity, the cuticle layers are lifted and sometimes damaged and broken.
When the cuticle layers are in good health, the hair has a smooth appearance, and because the layers of the cuticle are so tightly knit together, the light is able to reflect off the cuticle. This is what makes hair shine! When the cuticle layers are not tight together, the hair will feel coarse and brittle. The hair will then absorb the light and not reflect. This will give a surface appearance of dull and lifeless hair. To sum up this scenario. Because curly haired cuticle layer is permanently lifted, it feels, coarse, and brittle and has no brilliance. Hence the dull, lifeless look. It also means that our hair has poor porosity.
Porosity...
Is the ability for hair to be able to absorb and retain moisture. The best way for me to explain this is to would be for you to imagine a sponge. First of all imagine a brand new sponge. It will have tiny holes in it, and when you immerse it in water, it will soak up a large quantity, and be able to hold that liquid for a long period of time. This is because it has good porosity.
Now imagine an old sponge. Its holes have become damaged and distorted. It might even be torn in some areas. When you immerse this sponge in the same amount of liquid, it will absorb far less and will certainly not be able to retain the moisture so readily.
It is the same with hair. Hair that has poor porosity will not be able to absorb or retain moisture as well as hair that has good porosity. making hair permanently dry.
Hot oil treatments...
Traditions have taught many of us that lavishly applying oil to our hair will give us the soft, shiny hair that we all desire. However more often than not, the opposite takes place. Most oils if they are not essential oils do not have the ability to penetrate into the hair shaft. Nor do heavy cholesterols. What they will do, is to lay on top of the cuticle, and coat the cuticle. This may give the hair some Brilliance. However, it will also coat the hair. And causes product build up.
Product build up...
Once the hair is coated, your problems will commence. First of all, the moisture that our hair so desperately needs will not be able to permeate through the wall of product build. The moisture is then not able to find it’s way underneath the cuticle layer. The hair cannot then be conditioned. Also the oils will not diffuse. If you use any kind of hot styling tools such as blow dryers or hot irons, what will happen to your hair, is exactly what happens when you put an egg into a hot pan. It will fry.
If you live in a sunny climate, the oil will do the same thing. The sun will heat the oil and fry your hair. You must have heard the term, my hair feels fried.
Optimum condition...
For hair to be in tiptop conditioner is has to have a moisture (water) content of at least 8%, and the right balance of protein and natural oil. Most of us produce enough natural oil (sebum), to keep our hair healthy, but lack the moisture.
What to do...
You need to give your hair lots of TLC, with shampoos that are designed to restore your hair’s moisture level to its optimum 8%. Along with intense conditioners that will help to repair damaged cuticles, improve porosity, elasticity and general health and appearance of your hair.
Those of us with naturally curly, wavy or frizzy hair, those who use hot styling tools or who chemically treat our hair, will need to give our hair extra nurturing by supplying our hair with the necessary nutrition and moisture that it needs. Chemical treatments (i.e. perms, hair dyes or bleaches.), will deplete the hair of moisture. bringing the hair moisture level own to as low as 2%. When this occurs you will start to notice split ends. The same will happen with constant use of blow-dryers or hot styling tools. If these split ends are not repaired forthwith and the moisture level not restored to 8%, Your split ends will turn to breakage. This obviously needs to be avoided at all costs.
Those of us who live in hot, sunny or arid climates; need to make sure that our hair care product contain sunscreens to protect our hair from the damaging affects of the UV rays. If not the same thing will happen to the hair.
In order for your hair to be in optimum condition, you need to avoid the following: Hot oil treatments, heavy cholesterols, silicones and petroleum based products as these will cause product build up. Be careful not to rub too vigorously when towel drying or over pull the hair when wet, as this will damage the cuticle and cause split ends which in turn can lead to breakage. Over processing with chemicals, such as perms, relaxers and bleaches. Hot sun during the mid day hours.

You need to nurture your hair with products that contain natural and botanical ingredients, such as coconut, aloe, chamomile, wheat, rice and corn proteins. And also vitamins that come from natural sources. Use products that contain natural humectants that are going to restore your hairs' moisture level to its optimum 8%. Also look for products that have sum protective properties. In other words give your hair lots of TLC!
Summary... Our hair needs MOISTURE, MOISTURE, and MOISTURE! Who needs to add moisture more than most? People with naturally curly hair, chemically treated, hot styling tool users or people who live in hot sunny and arid climates.
 

londongirl3

New Member
My brain froze over in the middle of the article. I like the info so far and I have copied it onto my microsoft word.

Thanks Carmen
 

Zgirl

New Member
this is definately an interesting article
but they got me with the hot oil treatment
I usually use olive oil in my hair
I wonder if that is ok
I think i might go on the site and read more
thanks for sharing that with us /images/graemlins/clap.gif
 
Thanks alot for this article.

I liked how it explained porosity. so do you think the author was stressing that we need moisture? /images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

Paris Belle

Active Member
Zgirl, that's what I was thinking. I swear by my hot oil treatments. When I don't do them, I really feel the difference. /images/graemlins/crazy.gif

But I do like how she explained porosity and why our hair frizzes etc. I am definitely thinking of doing rinses when my hair looks dry. Because of this, last night, I spritzed my hair with water lightly and found that it seemed better. I may also start washing my hair twice a week.
 

ms_kenesha

New Member
Okay I'm having problems with this ladies article because #1 She says, "It will have tiny holes in it, and when you immerse it in water, it will soak up a large quantity, and be able to hold that liquid for a long period of time. This is because it has good porosity." Porosity in hair is a bad thing because "in a normal, undamaged hair shaft, very little water can get either into or out of the cortex. This is because the cuticle covering the cortex is intact, and is then almost (but not quite) waterproof. Over-porous hair is dry, and tends to develop split ends. The damaged cuticle is fragile, and the damage worsens as time goes by. The greater the damage, the more the cortex swells with water whenever the hair is washed, but the more water it loses when it dries. The repeated wetting and drying of the cortex gradually weakens the hair." an on-line reference by Dr. John Gray,
provided by the P&G Hair Care Research Center.

#2 This 8% rule of moisture is so arbitrary. How would one know whether or not they've reached 8% and where did she pull this figure from? She says, "For hair to be in tiptop conditioner is has to have a moisture (water) content of at least 8%, and the right balance of protein and natural oil. Most of us produce enough natural oil (sebum), to keep our hair healthy, but lack the moisture." She doesn't even mention that though we may produce enough sebum that if our hair is curly that sebum has no way to carry itself down the hair shaft on it's own.
 

Paris Belle

Active Member
Yes, there are many things about this article that I think don't go with our hair or contradicts what we already know.
That's why I posted it, to see what others think.

Personally, I think she is over-generalizing everybody's hair thinking that we all have the same hair.

I did like what she said about the frizzies and the moisture. 8% moisture is hard to determine surely, but perhaps it is a goal that could be useful to us.
 

moni

New Member
did she say what composes the leftover 92%. if lack of moisture is the reason why most peoples hair break off then 8% is not a really big amount. Does that make sense? (referring to what i just said) I don't know. *shrug* /images/graemlins/scratchchin.gif
 

BlkMane

New Member
Food for thought...but I agree with Ms. Kenesha. I don't agree with all of it.

But, I do agree about the product build-up. I have experienced that using silicones and cholesterols. That is why I have incorporated a clarifying shampoo in my routine.

About the porosity of hair, I've always heard that having porous hair is bad.

Didn't like this line either: A normal hair follicle under a microscope would be seen as perfectly straight.

Did she ever stop to think that maybe CURLY hair is normal and the straight hair is a freak of nature? /images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
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