REINTERPRETATION OF "LYE" (BEWARE)

[nekilaki]

Ok. So 7-weeks ago I went to get a texturizer on my all natural hair. When my stylist pulled out the small cup of Affirm Fiberguard I was all excited because that's the exact type I wanted. But then I asked, "Wait a minute, is that the lye formula, because I want lye." She was like, "Yeah, this has lye in it." So I was pumped.

Well, it turns out that my hair was underprocessed during that first visit. I was glad that she listened to me, though, and didn't do anything I didn't want her to. She just put the relaxer all in my hair like conditioner and didn't smooth. It was kept in for about 13 minutes and rinsed out. A few weeks later I noticed my hair was really dry, and taking on some no-lye tendencies.

So today I called her back to schedule an appointment for a corrective application and I asked her, "Was the chemical you used last time a no-lye formula, because I'm noticing some no-lye tendencies in my hair."

Ok ya'll, check out her response. She said, "They're all lye. Some of them are just sodium based and others are calcium based."

WHAT?

So I looked up the word "lye" in websters dicrtionary and this is the definition:

Main Entry: lye
Pronunciation: 'lI
Function: noun
Etymology: Middle English, from Old English lEag; akin to Old High German louga lye, Latin lavare, lavere to wash, Greek louein
1 : a strong alkaline liquor rich in potassium carbonate leached from wood ashes and used especially in making soap and washing; broadly : a strong alkaline solution (as of sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide)
2 : a solid caustic (as sodium hydroxide)


Do ya'll see calcium hydroxide anywhere in there?

Maybe I'm the ignorant one, but it would've been nice for her to recognize the more popular definition of "lye" than her interpretation.

Overall, I'm pleased with her because she catered to my picky requests in general and was cool with it.

I just wanted to share this with ya'll so you will be aware that they may be stylist out there who may believe calcium-hydroxide chemicals are safe to define as lye.

 

[MeccaMedinah]

From what I read a few years ago, all relaxers have lye in them. Maybe she read the same article

 

[HoneyDew]

Actually I think she's right. I read that the so called "no-lye" is made of Guanidine hydroxide. The base is made of calcium hydroxide cream and the activator stuff is guanidine carbonate.

Either way both "lye" and "no lye" have a high PH and can make hair dry.

 

[Lovelylocs]

She should've told u what it said on the box.

 

[Nanyanika]

Sorry that the texturizer didn't go as plan.. i also used Affirm Fiberguard on my natural coarsae 4b hair and ended up with underprocessed, dry and shedding hair, i went back for a corrective and my hair just got worse i think it was no-lye formula too. The only way my hair got better was when i switched to the orginal Affirm lye, my hair had more moisture and corrected some of the problem but my hair was damaged because of figerguard it caused matting, tangles, breakage and shedding. you need to baby your hair with quality moisturising conditioners and use mild protein. good luck

 

[nekilaki]

Thank you ladies. So there are different formulations of lye, huh? (Wow - I'm glad I'm on this site.)

It would have been nice if she told me what was on the box though.

But I guess most hair stylists think that their customers wouldn't know the difference. They just assume us ignorant. And I would've been more ignorant than I am if it weren't for LHCF!

 

[nekilaki]

Thank you so much Den1. You just saved my hair girl!!

I've been searching the posts for a comparison between the Affirm Fiberguard and the regular formula. Now I know what to do. I was thinking about trying Fiberguard again, but now I'm convinced. My relaxed hair used to thrive with Affirm regular. So I should do like they say - If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[PrettyBrownEyes]

I have had to start plainly stating that I want a Sodium Hydroxide based relaxer, before that I had the same problem with my stylist that you described, nekilaki.

 

[Nanyanika]

Thank you so much Den1. You just saved my hair girl!!

I've been searching the posts for a comparison between the Affirm Fiberguard and the regular formula. Now I know what to do. I was thinking about trying Fiberguard again, but now I'm convinced. My relaxed hair used to thrive with Affirm regular. So I should do like they say - If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

No problem girl!! your hair is gorgeous too..... also keep it ultra moisturised with Conditioner washes, creamy moisturisers/leave-ins are brilliant too, seal in moisture with some great oils, i love coconut oil, EVVO is very common use amoungst LHCF members. If you need any corrective relaxing tips, send me a PM i'd be happy to be help. Here's an old pic of my corrective texturizer

 

[Porsche19]

She knew what you wanted when you requested a lye relaxer... she knew damned well that you wanted the lye formula and not the no-lye formula. Even if calcium hydroxide IS a type of lye, you asked SPECIFICALLY for the lye formula of the relaxer... you didn't say "give me something with lye, any type of lye"

What a lying *****...

 

[kitchen_tician]

I'm sorry that happened to you, but in my opinion most experienced stylists, know the difference between lye and no-lye relaxers and would have known what your question meant. I don't know what these cosmetology schools are teaching people.

I met a stylist the other day in a store and we started talking about relaxers and she told me that the relaxers you "mix" are "lye" relaxers. I explained that they may have a form of "lye" in them, such as calcium hydroxide or guanidine, but they are considered "no-lye" meaning (no sodium hydroxide) and that each may have a different effect on the hair/scalp. She looked at me all confused and said, "Oh".

 

[nekilaki]

Thanks again Den1 for all your help. Your the greatest baby! And the picture of your texturized hair is just about exactly what I want. Was it dry in that picture? It gives me so much inspriation.

And Porshe19, whew girl, I got you all reved up! Your texturizer is really cute. What relaxer did you use?

 

[nekilaki]

Thanks Kitchen_tician. So, there is definitely a disconnect between what lay people and stylists about what defines lye and no-lye. Hmm. :scratchch

I think it may be an issue of common names vs. chemical names. For instance, the common names I found for sodium hydroxide are "lye" and "soda lye". The only common names I found for calcium hydroxide are "lime", "caustic lime", and "lime milk".
I'm still looking for the common name of the guanadine stuff.

At any rate, we have to figure out this mystery, and how many stylists believe which nomanclature, so we can protect our hair from what it doesn't like.

Anyone else have any input?

 

[MissB]

Affirm lye comes in a tub. Affirm no lye comes in the small individual containers.

 

[nekilaki]

I knew I wasn't trippin' when I thought the no-lye formula comes in the little cups.

I should really trust my instincts and move on them.

 

[meka]

Go to the affirm webstite. The regular sodium base Fiberguard comes in a bucket, the other one, "no lye" comes in a individual cups. There is a great article on this particular thing in the new Sophisticate's Black Hair Care Mag. True, they both are lye but the calcium based one is more harsh on the hair and easier on the scalp. The other one may be harsher on the scalp but way better for the hair.

 

[DatJerseyDyme]

She knew exactly what you wanted..she just wanted to give you what she thought you should have.

 

[Porsche19]

Thanks again Den1 for all your help. Your the greatest baby! And the picture of your texturized hair is just about exactly what I want. Was it dry in that picture? It gives me so much inspriation.

And Porshe19, whew girl, I got you all reved up! Your texturizer is really cute. What relaxer did you use?

I tend to get reved up very easily

Thanks! I use PCJ lye.

 

[nekilaki]

I'm thinking I should've been more reved-up ( in a nice but stern way) with this whole interaction. This stylist has a really good attitude, and she really listened to what I wanted without making it seem like I was asking for too much, or forcing anything on me (not overtly anyway).

I'll see what safe confrontation I can muster-up during my appointment next week.

 

[Faith]

They're all lye. Some of them are just sodium based and others are calcium based."

Um, same thing a hairdresser told me. And this was a HIGH end salon. Over 100 for a relaxer. Coming in for a trim is like $50-60. Lack of education is lack of education. Sad!

 

[Healthb4Length]

I just found out that no-lye relaxers are calcium or lithium based! I'm so glad I found out because I wanted to try the multi-mineral multi-system relaxer from optimum but now I don't think so. It incorporates Calcium, Sodium and Lithium hydroxides to straighten hair...no thanks!

 

[balisi]

I'm sorry that happened to you, but in my opinion most experienced stylists, know the difference between lye and no-lye relaxers and would have known what your question meant. I don't know what these cosmetology schools are teaching people.

I met a stylist the other day in a store and we started talking about relaxers and she told me that the relaxers you "mix" are "lye" relaxers. I explained that they may have a form of "lye" in them, such as calcium hydroxide or guanidine, but they are considered "no-lye" meaning (no sodium hydroxide) and that each may have a different effect on the hair/scalp. She looked at me all confused and said, "Oh".

I agree that most professional stylists DO know the difference. However, I wouldn't be as quick to fault the cos. school as I would the stylist. Chances are that the school is teaching properly, however you've got to wonder how some stylists ever passed the state board. There are so many different relaxer formulations that it would make your head spin. Unfortunately, some folks in the industry don't take the time to learn the difference. When it comes to relaxers, my personal preference for clients is sodium hydroxide (lye). I believe the others are way too drying and not as effective.

 

[Supergirl]

I have had to start plainly stating that I want a Sodium Hydroxide based relaxer, before that I had the same problem with my stylist that you described, nekilaki.

I say "sodium hydroxide" now too. I have heard several stylists use that famous line that they all have "some" lye in them.

 

[myco]

I just found out that no-lye relaxers are calcium or lithium based! I'm so glad I found out because I wanted to try the multi-mineral multi-system relaxer from optimum but now I don't think so. It incorporates Calcium, Sodium and Lithium hydroxides to straighten hair...no thanks!

I've used this relaxer for my last 4 or 5 touchups. I was skeptical at first myself, but I've had a really good experience with it. No dryness, no red hair, lots of shine and body. I use the mild version.

 

[Nanyanika]

Thanks again Den1 for all your help. Your the greatest baby! And the picture of your texturized hair is just about exactly what I want. Was it dry in that picture? It gives me so much inspriation.

And Porshe19, whew girl, I got you all reved up! Your texturizer is really cute. What relaxer did you use?

My hair was wet in the other pic.

this is how it air dries:

 

[nekilaki]

Den1. Thanks for the picutures. You hair is gorgeous, as always!