First time braids on natural hair: advice needed

[CarLiTa]

Hi, all, I am considering getting braids for the first time in 10 years, and I need help.

I never used to feel that wearing braids had any value for me, because when I would wear them, I’d keep them in for 1 month, take them out, then rake through my extra dry hair (not washing for that entire month:barf) and then get a trimerplexed

In other words, wearing braids was entirely counter-productive. It meant damage, dryness, and trims that would not have happened otherwise.

However, I am just about to start a new position that will require a fair amount of travel in Africa. I am set to be in 3 countries in the next 2 months. Fortunately, I will not be working with a stuffy, corporate-like company, so for the first time ever I feel that I can wear braids on the job. And I know from experience that when I travel, after a while I start slacking on my hair regimen (mostly bc I’m quite active when traveling). Just came back from a 2-wee trip and had to cut some knots out my hair

So, yeah, braids seem like a good idea. I need to decide fast, because I would have to get them put in this Saturday. Estimated cost is about $20! Which is amazing

Here’s what I would like your advice on:

• Should I blow-dry my hair before going? My hair is natural and below BSL when stretched.
• I know there are various types of braids… I’m liking those “Poetic Justice” braids, though I’m nervous about how heavy they will be. The other option is Senegalese twists, right? Is there anything else? A hybrid?
• How often is reasonable to keep braids in? I’ve never kept them in more than 4 weeks, and this time I’d like the option to go up to 8.
• How do you maintain your braids? How do you wash while wearing them? And how often?
• Are there any questions/directions I should consider bringing to the hairdresser when I visit her?
• Is there anything that I didn’t mention that I should know??

Thanks in advance! And pictures are very much welcome

 

[Mahogony7]

I think it's best to blow dry your hair first. It makes it easier for the braider and keeps your hair tangle free.

The braids will be heavy if the hair is synthetic. Human hair is lightest. I never feel like box braids are really heavy, but I'm used to it.

Get a good braid spray or make your own oil mist.

Wash whenever you feel it's necessary using an applicator bottle and focusing only on the scalp. Also, wet braids are very heavy so be careful.

I usually wear my braids for two months with no problems. I once went three months and my hair locked up never again

Good Luck to you.

 

[almond eyes]

Wash and do a good protein and DC treatment.

Blow your hair out.

Tell the braider not to braid too tight and not to grab your baby hairs. Do not be afraid to speak up especially about tightness in the front. Do not braid your hair too small unless the braider can do the 'one pick' a method by where you can lightly pull the braid from the top and not have to unbraid from the bottom when it comes time to take your braids down. I am so careful now about who braids my hair and the method of braiding. I went to a place in Harlem four years ago after not having also braided in years and my hair was natural at the time and they braided so tight and used this cheap crappy synthetic hair and all of my hair fell in the front.

I prefer synthetic because human hair itches me like crazy and gets spoiled quickly and is too expensive.

I only put a bit of light oil in my hair and nothing else because I do not want matting.

I only keep my braids in for four to eight weeks. And after three weeks I begin checking the front perimeter to prevent breakage and clumping.

I never wash my hair the weight of the water is too much especially if you wear long single plaits. If my hair itches I use some diluted witch hazel or it means I am allergic to the hair or that I need to take out my braids again. And I always listen to what my hair is telling me now rather than stay in the braids because I just got them done. Braids are not always for everyone!!!!!

I tie my hair up at night.

And after keeping them in for a month to two months, I take a break for at least 3 weeks before putting another set of braids in again.

Since you have not braided your hair in a long time, like me when I first got mine done after two years of not braiding, your head might hurt a bit. I got very long medium small plaits all the way and my neck lightly hurt for two days when sleeping due to the weight. I almost took them out. But now it is fine. If your scalp feels a bit tender you can take a warm towel to soothe it. And you can tell if your hair is too tight if you can see white bulbs.

Best,
Almond Eyes

 

[CarLiTa]

WHITE BULBS?!

I am nervous because I hear that African braiders braid really, really tight. I'll have to ask around for gentle braiders in the area.

But thanks a lot for the responses. I am considering larger braids, similar to this one:

Any idea what type of hair this might be? How to recognize it at a hair supply store?

 

[NGraceO]

The ladies already gave some wonderful advice. Some things I can add:

The bigger the better. The take down is nightmarish when you get braids too small AND you have long hair like you.

If take down is a concern for you, I would opt for Senegalese twists.

Get an amazing moisturizing spray. MOST unnecessary breakage is from dry, neglected hair. Try to moisturize once a day or every other day. I've found that moisturizing and sealing works fine on braids.

Breakage can also be due to too heavy braids, so keep that in consideration.

You can/ should wash and condition your braids as needed! I have done so on MANY occasions without any adverse affects. The benefit of braids is that you can go longer without washing, but I wouldn't go forever; clean and moisturizer hair helps tremendously when it comes to take down. When you don't wash, you obtain much more build up which causes more breakage. A good tip: let your hair air dry with a scarf over it to prevent excess frizz.

Make sure you tie your hair down nightly. Goes a long way in Maintanence.

Try to redo the front and back edges every two-three weeks. That may sound tedious, but trust- it will SAVE your edges.

NGraceO

 

[NGraceO]

WHITE BULBS?! I am nervous because I hear that African braiders braid really, really tight. I'll have to ask around for gentle braiders in the area. But thanks a lot for the responses. I am considering larger braids, similar to this one: Any idea what type of hair this might be? How to recognize it at a hair supply store?

Looks like plain old kanekalon hair.

NGraceO

 

[Ogoma]

I have braided my hair in Africa (Nigeria and Zambia):

- don't keep them in for longer than 4 weeks. It is so cheap to braid and cheap to pay someone to take them out. You can get 3 people working on your hair at the same time to speed it up. I don't remember anyone keeping their braids in for long at all. People changed their braided styles so frequently. Keeping braids for 3 months is something we do here because of the cost and time

- I was very clear I didn't want tight braids and if they made them tight, I politely asked them to take it out and redo. They got the message pretty clearly that this crazy woman was serious

- I ran regularly so not washing/rinsing weekly was not an option for me. I rinsed my scalp weekly and use a butter and a bit of gel to calm down the frizzies from about week 3

 

[nikolite]

First, I'm not sure why braids did so much damage to your hair before, especially if they were only in for a month. Maybe it was the person who put them in incorrectly?

To your questions, I have braids in my hair now, my second set since September. I do them myself, so they are not too tight. I use synthetic kanekalon (the $2/pack stuff) and mist every other day with an oil and water mix spray (including castor oil). When I put them in, I used a homemade pomade that I make (beeswax, olive oil, castor oil, vitamin E, whatever other oils I have on hand) and put a little bit on each strand to protect it before braiding. Made for easier takedown and pretty soft hair afterwards. I only leave them in for 6-8 weeks, so its no big deal to me that they start to loosen by then. I know its better for my hair follicles and its not that noticeable because the braids are medium-to-large. That being said, whatever size you choose, I would make sure that your parted section is at least as thick as the amount of hair you add.

Hope this helps. Braids really shouldn't be leaving your hair a dry mess!

 

[cutiebe2]

search crown and glory method on here and you will get great advice.

Blow dry you hair because african braiders tend to disregard the health of your actual hair. They will just pull through it.

Give your self a deep condition before you go it and put some leave in conditioner on your blowdried hair. I put some conditioner and shea butter (not too much)

Make sure they keep the parts big but that they dont add too much hair to each braid. The first time I got them done after a 10 year hiatus, my hair was soooo heavy. After that I monitored how much hair they used very closely. I also tell them not to add hair halfway down as they often do to make the braids look thick all the way to the end, that just adds tons of weight

When you take the braids down, saturate you hair with conditioner first. Also, condition you hair in the braids, some people just spray and thats it. When you condition the braids using a co-wash type conditioner like V05 or Suave, the hair will be much more moisturized when you take them down.

Dont keep them in for more than two months

 

[cutiebe2]

WHITE BULBS?!

I am nervous because I hear that African braiders braid really, really tight. I'll have to ask around for gentle braiders in the area.

But thanks a lot for the responses. I am considering larger braids, similar to this one:

Any idea what type of hair this might be? How to recognize it at a hair supply store?

Those look like Senagalese twist which is what I get and I recommend them.

Also, use african hair companies. I use "Xpressions" hair which is from Nigeria and I find in a few stores in the US. The hair is AMAZING. I get so many compliments compared the the regular kanelalon hair which can look dull after a while.

I wouldn't get the braids as thick as that picture, it looks like a bit too much hair for each braid.

 

[naturalmanenyc]

I just started getting braids as an adult in the last couple of years. Prior to that my only braid experience was around age 13 and I took them out the next day since they were heavy and itchy.

Yes, blow out your hair before you go. I've had my hair braided a few times now at different salons and with a home braider and the best/fastest braiding was when my hair was already blown out. I find that even professional braiders are not all that gentle with natural hair.

Right now I am loving my Havana Twists. I have only 33 twists and it's not heavy. I used Havana Twist hair (Toyokalon fiber) but you can do this style with Marley hair. Lots of people think this is my real hair and I don't tell them any different.

I keep braid styles in for 8 weeks at a time, but that's because they are $100 - $200 to install depending on the style. For $20 you can get new braids every week or two.

I wash my braids in the shower with diluted shampoo in a squirt bottle while wearing a stocking cap. I washed my hair before the Havana twists were installed (and did a protein treatment with Komaza) and the braider told me to not wash them for 2 weeks. After that, I can wash as often as I like. I have a problem with braids slipping so washing right away is not an option or I could lose braids. I spray my braids with a homemade braid spray (aloe vera juice, WEN 613 and oils).

Do not let her braid too tight. I had braids taken out and redone on the spot if they felt too tight. You need to be vigilant about how they handle your hair. I've heard braiders tell women and little girls that it's not tight as if they didn't know what they were feeling. You do not want to end up with tight braids (white bumps and headaches). It's damage waiting to happen.

Make sure the braids at your hair line are not too tight or too large. Heavy braids can cause just as much damage as tight braids.

They do not have to put every single baby hair into the braid. Leaving out the baby hair looks more natural than a braid starting right at the hair line.

I would do a mild protein treatment before getting braids. I use Komaza.

These are some styles I worn that were done at two different shops, with Kinky Twists and later with Senegalese twists.

Kinky Twists: http://goingnaturaltransitioningtonaturalhair.com/kinky-twists-protective-hairstyle/

Senegalese Twists: http://goingnaturaltransitioningtonaturalhair.com/senegalese-twists-protective-hairstyle/

Prior to that I had Spring twists crochet braids (Curly twists on a cornrow base). I went in with blown out hair and once I washed it and my curls came back my hair felt a bit loose.

Spring Twists style: http://goingnaturaltransitionington...-hairstyle-for-transitioning-to-natural-hair/

I cannot always use the twist in method and sometimes need my roots braided. I have in Havana twists right now and they are holding up well. I'm keeping them in for 8 weeks and then getting Spring twists again, singles though not curly twists on crochet braids.

Havana Twists: http://goingnaturaltransitioningtonaturalhair.com/diy-fail-havana-twists/

 

[Ogoma]

Those look like Senagalese twist which is what I get and I recommend them. Also, use african hair companies. I use "Xpressions" hair which is from Nigeria and I find in a few stores in the US. The hair is AMAZING. I get so many compliments compared the the regular kanelalon hair which can look dull after a while. I wouldn't get the braids as thick as that picture, it looks like a bit too much hair for each braid.

I use Xpressions as well. They are not as heavy when washed and they held up well.

 

[Jaffa]

I have braided my hair in Africa (Nigeria and Zambia):

- don't keep them in for longer than 4 weeks. It is so cheap to braid and cheap to pay someone to take them out. You can get 3 people working on your hair at the same time to speed it up. I don't remember anyone keeping their braids in for long at all. People changed their braided styles so frequently. Keeping braids for 3 months is something we do here because of the cost and time

- I was very clear I didn't want tight braids and if they made them tight, I politely asked them to take it out and redo. They got the message pretty clearly that this crazy woman was serious

- I ran regularly so not washing/rinsing weekly was not an option for me. I rinsed my scalp weekly and use a butter and a bit of gel to calm down the frizzies from about week 3

Totally agree with this!!
I too have had the experience of having my hair braided (west Africa) and they work really fast, it is very cheap and the styles as well as the quality of the hair were fantastic! I was getting my hair redone almost weekly - just for the sake of it!

 

[Austro-Afrikana]

@CarLiTa

• Should I blow-dry my hair before going? My hair is natural and below BSL when stretched.

I normally blow dry as this minimises the manipulation and stress that can be caused by trying to get neat parts. Also it results in smoother braids as the hair is less likely to stick out.

• I know there are various types of braids… I’m liking those “Poetic Justice” braids, though I’m nervous about how heavy they will be. The other option is Senegalese twists, right? Is there anything else? A hybrid?

Just regular box braids and kinky twists. The large braids you are talking about would be too heavy and could cause damage, particularly to your edges.

• How often is reasonable to keep braids in? I’ve never kept them in more than 4 weeks, and this time I’d like the option to go up to 8.

A good amount of time is 6-8 weeks.

• How do you maintain your braids? How do you wash while wearing them? And how often?

I wash weekly with a soft sponge. I do not rub my scalp or the braids. I moisurise daily with braid spray and avoid using oils/

• Are there any questions/directions I should consider bringing to the hairdresser when I visit her?

Tell her not to do it too tight and not to catch your baby hairs. You may want to gel your baby hairs down and tell her to leave those hairs. Also tell her not to burn the hair.

• Is there anything that I didn’t mention that I should know??

Try not to pull your hair back too much for the first couple of weeks as this will cause stress on the hair line and may loosen your braids prematurely.

 

[CarLiTa]

You all are GREAT. A few questions/comments:

nikolite and cutiebe2, what do you mean about the part being big. How big can a part be? I don't understand.

So, to summarize:
-Buy Xpressions
-Blowdry beforehand. I don't have a blow dryer nor comb, but I do have a flatiron. I might even flatiron my hair tonight... Hm. I washed and DCed yesterday. Otherwise, I need to go shopping
-deep condition and do a protein treatment
-not too much hair on each section
-have them remove the braid if it is too tight
-keep the baby hairs free!
-wash with sponge
-spritz daily with homemade mixture
-tie down with scarf at night
-keep no more than 8 weeks, but if I'm in Africa I can do less time
-lather with conditioner when taking out the braids

So, comments:
-I technically COULD do my hair more often, but what's the point of putting my fine strands to that level of stress every single weeks? If I'm getting braids, they have to both: save me the trouble of doing my hair daily, and not cause breakage. I think getting them done weekly would be too much. My fine strands can't handle that.

-I used to get a lot of breakage in braids because I never washed them. My family probably never wore braids, and I don't think most Haitians do. So, we were pretty much clueless, letting our hair be damaged those few months we tried extensions. Now I know better, thanks to LHCF.

 

[Ogoma]

^^ When I braided last year, I did not blow dry. I just detangled and stretched the hair with braids. But, my braider had natural hair herself so my experience is probably different from what you will experience.

I think it was Nonie who mentioned not straightening/blow drying the hair because it would get messy quicker. I believe it had to do with it reverting in the braid when it was moisturized/rinsed. I hope I am remembering that correctly.

 

[nikolite]

I also don't blow dry my hair, but I stretched my hair with rollers like I usually do and let them airdry overnight.

By parts, what I mean is if you are going to part out a section of hair (usually in the shape of a square) you should make sure that they are big, as in there is a large enough amount of hair that can hold up to the braid hanging off of it. HTH.

 

[AmiJay]

I don't wash them but use BRX braid spray. I keep mine in for 2 months and just use witch hazel if my scalp feels gross or itchy. There are a lot of different braid sprays, but BRX is my boo.