Black Stylist Biased Against Natural Hair

loverofnaps71

New Member
This is a really good article. Please read and share your thoughts when you have time.

My Search for the Black Beautician: A Hairstory

In a sea of black faces, in a business owned and operated by black people they were trying to find someone who did natural hair!




Email Letter to the Editor



By Jane Malloy-Kamau

I wear my hair natural. In a society rife with weaves, perms, relaxers, texturizers and extensions I prefer to just let my hair be. Does this act on my part deserve some dubious distinction of being "more" than the average black woman? Absolutely not.
Wearing my hair natural is not a new trip for me. I have never had a weave or perm and have gone through 30-plus years without enlisting the support of any additives, preservatives, activators or motivators! These days I wear a combination of double-strand twists and a twisted, bushy 'fro. I admit to having served under the black hot metal of the straightening comb and yes, I proudly rocked my 1980s flip (ode to Farah Fawcett) and my own version of the mushroom (which made me look more like Fat Albert's friend Dumb Donald than Dorothy Hamill). In college, I wore the black woman's version of the mullet. You remember: long in the back, short up top. I'm not sure who we owe that hairstyle to, but I worked it. Oh, did I work it! Yes, I did fry my hair on occasion and even freaked it out with a wig from time to time, but underneath the netting, the Dixie Peach, the Ultra Sheen and Pink Lotion, I donned just about every natural hairstyle one could don: cornrows, short afros, big afros, locks, afro puffs, twists, knots, you name it — I had it. So what, you might ask, is the dilemma?

Recently, I went to an African American-owned day spa and salon in New Jersey to get my hair washed and styled. My appointment that day had been cancelled because the woman who did my hair was gone and they were trying to find someone who could do natural hair. In a sea of black faces, in a business owned and operated by black people they were trying to find someone who did natural hair! Finally, a woman who called herself the co-owner of the salon announced that they could not accommodate me. I told her that it was disheartening to hear that in a salon owned and operated by black people there was no one who could do black hair. The woman shrugged it off, while another woman (doing a white woman's nails) asked me to step outside. The woman explained that although they were a black-owned salon, they were not there to simply serve black people.

The bitterness of that salon visit lingered long enough for me to put in a call to my friend and attorney, asking her if she believed it to be discrimination if a black-owned salon refused to due your hair based on its texture. My friend thought the idea was interesting, but persuaded me instead to exercise my First Amendment rights, to speak freely about the issue and if necessary protest the salon and its indifference to the needs of black women. And so I did. I sent out e-mails to friends, complained to the Better Business Bureau and the state's governing body that licenses beauticians and barbers. I also wrote this essay.

Our emancipation in America sparked the advent of black beauty salons, barbershops and Madame C.J. Walker's straightening combs. There existed a coalition of the willing who would, no matter how poor your pockets or unruly your 'do, transform your crown into a work of art. These beauticians who once honed their skills and hair weaponry with little more than grease, water, comb and brush have been replaced by hairstylists who rely on high-tech chemicals and synthetic hair.

There was a time when a black beautician did not retreat in shock when we walked in with hair that defied the laws of physics and resisted comb and brush. Yet, we find ourselves today struggling to find someone who can do what is our legacy and our most inimitable bridge to our ancestors: our hair.

The new natural hair salons that have sprung up in recent years although wonderful, charge a considerable amount for what we once got done sitting on our best friend's front stoop or at the local kitchen-tician. Now, we have professional natural hair salons or spas that boast experienced lock-ticians, braid-ticians and all-around natural-ticians. Some of these natural salons want to charge more than $100 dollars to twist or cornrow my hair --and this is without any extensions or add-ons. Although I have heard the argument from several natural hair stylists that natural hair takes longer, and the price matches the amount of time it takes, this argument holds very little water when the same exorbitant prices are charged to women with shorter hair. It's starting to feel like the poll tax once administered to black people as a requirement for voting — only now, the tax is on the natural head and the message states loud and clear that if you choose to wear your hair natural, it will cost you. It makes you think that there is a conspiracy to force black women to use chemicals in our hair, and the co-conspirators are our very own black beauty coiffeurs. What happened to a regular old black hairdresser who could do it all? Now, the process has been re-mixed to something that makes our very natural hair seem unnatural and out of place.

I'm fortunate that I can style my own hair and have for most of my life. However, I lead a non-stop life that includes a daughter who has a head full of hair that demands my attention. I feel I deserve to be pampered from time to time. Now, the black beauty salon, once a haven for all types of hair 'dos subjects people with hair like mine to a litany of unapologetic hair don'ts.

Lucky for me, I've found, not far from my home a store-front salon with young, fast-talking hands that braid, twist, lock, perm, press and weave — "we do it all" boasts the store's young owner. And so my story ends on a happy note. But what bout all my sisters dealing with the same drama in their own hometowns. What becomes of their search for the black beautician? We live in a time when our natural hair has become a novelty even to ourselves. When will we learn that the very things we reject about ourselves are later stolen, marketed and sold back to our communities? I guess in about ten years, when white women are getting afro hair weaved in to their straight hair, we'll have no trouble finding a sister to do our hair.


First published: December 18, 2003
 

nbcgurl22

New Member
This is a great article and soooo true. I remember seeing a thread on a board not so long ago that there was a sign in a Dominican salon that said they did not do natural hair - WTH!!!

I for one do not trust most black stylist to touch my hair because they do not how to care or do my hair. I let one cut my hair once and I wanted to pummel her afterwards!!!!:( I think I have finally found a place though of nice non judgemental stylist who actually know how to do hair even though it isn't relaxed - no smart comments either!!!!
 

JenJen2721

New Member
That was deep. The one natural salon that I have near me does charge an arm and a leg for braids and other services, which I will admit has somewhat deterred me from going au naturelle. It is cheaper for me to be relaxed until I can learn styles and maintenance for natural hair myself.
 

TinyT

New Member
Hmmm...she is right it is hard to find a place to do my natural hair that wont charge me unnecessary amounts of money. So i am forced to learn and do my hair wether I am tired or not. Or most places I go tell me they will texturize it and it can still be natural (uhm...no)

But I am not mad about it, just hope that i can find a place to do my hair on special days or days that I want to treat myself.
 

nbcgurl22

New Member
[ QUOTE ]
tracyannette said:
Or most places I go tell me they will texturize it and it can still be natural (uhm...no)



[/ QUOTE ]

What goes through peoples mind that say stuff like this???

I mean what do we really need done to our hair when we go into a salon?? A blowout for a trim (if you opt to do it that way), or a deep condition or protein treatment??? Sure some people do go for twists but I for one do that at home. I will go in to get a good deep treatment have the sylist give me some flat twists but that is about it - why is that so hard??
 

kasey

Active Member
I identify with the author's sentiments. I think it was a bit shameful for the salon to refuse to service her. Surely they could find stylists trained to do all types of hair. Also, it's not a good business decision for them to have only stylists trained to care for relaxed hair. I have experienced some unfounded negativity from many people about my choice not to perm, even from a stylist who described herself as a natural hair stylist. I think that stylists unfairly assume that that if your hair is not relaxed it is going to be hard to deal with, which is not always the case. Many stylists are not simply trained to work with 3c/4a/4b hair. Natural hair salons do charge alot, but I think they are trying to earn as much as as they would earn maintaining relaxed hair.
 

Tracy

New Member
I think this is really sad, but really interesting.

On the one hand I agree with the author that she might fairly PRESUME that she SHOULD be able to get her natural hair done at a salon that is black owned with no problems and no drama. I disagree with her though, that simply because a black owned salon IS black owned, that someone in the salon MUST be required to know their way around natural hair. Whether or not they do, in a capatialist society (black owned salon or no) is up to them based on their business sense and the demand of their client base.

By way of analogy - I could mosey into black owned, upscale, designer boutique in Harlem and expect that "in a sea of black faces" I could find a pair of pants to fit my rather ample behind and thighs. Fit them WELL even. After all - many balck women have ample nether regions - so clearly they should order some clothes that would look good on women like me....right? Wrong.

They provide the merchandise (like the salon provides the service) that they choose to provide. In a country where we can go pretty much wherever we want, whenever we want, to get pretty much anything we want - I can simply find a store that will accomodate me. I may have to pay more, and I may have to drive farther, and I may even have to go outside of Harlem to the Upper East side perhaps where they sell Seven jeans (which happen to fit me quiote well. I have to travel and pay $150 for that privilege) - but I can have them if I want them. The laws of economics in full effect.

But to expect that this boutique, by simple virtue of the fact that it is owned by women who look like me, will provide clothing that looks good on me, would be a disjointed argument - it ignores the economic principles of supply, demand, and a free market where people can find what they need (or want) somewhere else - ven if they might have to pay more, and even if they cannot find the product or service where they would prefer, provided by whom they might prefer, at the price they might prefer. That doesn't look like bias to me. It looks like Economics 101.


Now I DO definitely agree that the salons that DO cater to natural hair as ridiculously expensive. But the fact of the matter is - and a more direct argument to me - is that many of the women in THOSE salons HAVE NATURAL hair, DO NATURAL hair, and SET THE PRICES FOR natural hair. You would think that one natural would want another natural to have access to reasonably priced salons - but it appears they to are given to the lures of - again - supply and demand. It's harder to come by, so they charge more. Can't really knock a sister for that....

So basically, I get her argument, but I think her premise about what's actually "wrong" - and that it IS "wrong" - is slightly misplaced.

I feel her pain though. My Mom goes through this drama all the time. I finally took her to a Dominican salon (and here's the part of the sister's argument above that I COMPLETELY agree with) where they charged me $25 to wash, deep condition, and trim her hair and blow dry it straight. We've been looking for a natural salon to do that for her for 2 years. They wanted $150 to provide the service.
 

Chimma

New Member
I felt so angry when reading this too!

You can sue white salons for refusing to do your hair now or charging you more than they charge white people, because it is discrimination to discriminate against someone on account of their race. And here black salons are discriminating against people who just choose to wear their hair natural. They may advertise: can do all black hair, all black hair except the typical kind of black hair that most black people are born with? Is it no longer black to have natural black hair? Do they not even bother to train people on natural hair anymore?

It makes me so mad as a person who is now going from relaxed to natural! If I don't learn how to do every single thing myself, I have almost no where to go. I wish someone would sue. That would cause a lot of embarrassment to the salon and keep others in check whether or not it won, just like the black lady who sued renton did.
 

Supergirl

With Love & Silk
That's sad, but I do kind of understand them charging more for natural hair services. It's because of labor. I am charged more because of the length of my hair for the same reason--the labor involved. It takes more effort with un-processed hair. (at least I know this is true for me & my new growth)
 

sassygirl125

Professional PJ
Well said, Tracy!


If I were the writer I'd be more upset about the fact that my stylist was gone when I had an appointment!


Edited to add:
At least they were honest. They could have said, "No problem. X can do your hair today" and she could left the salon looking hairjacked.
 

Tracy

New Member
It makes sense that you could sue a white salon for not giving a haircut to black person when they ask for one or charging them more for the same haircut that they would give a white person. That would be racial discrimination. My feeling, however, is that it would be almost impossible to maintain an action for discrimination against a BLACK owned salon by a BLACK person seeking out a salon to provide them with services specific to a STYLE. That a stylist does not know how, or does not care to offer, services to natural heads because they do not have someone who is adequately trained, or is comfortable doing natural hair is neither legally, nor theoretically, discrimination. It's as simple as not finding the services you want, where you might expect to find them. It may be suprising, objectionable, and strange. But it's not discrimination. And it's not actionable under the law as far as I can tell.

Just because being natural is a political issue for some, does not mean it is a legal issue for the courts. Wearing natural hair is a choice of hair STYLE. For a stylist, maintaining that style required a degree of know how that a certain salon may just not have. I have relaxed hair, and I don't know about anyone else, but if a stylist did not know how to apply relaxers, or was not comfortable doing them, I wouldn't want them touching my hair. I would have no confidence that I would get the service I was seeking, and to require them to provide me with that service as a matter of principle, again, seems to me to be losing the forest for the trees as far as the premise of the argument is concerned.

I don't think litiagtion is the answer. I think litigation in this context would be simply reactionary. I think the REAL answer (if naturals are indeed up in arms about the situation - and I agree that they completely justified to be angry) is to have natural heads open salons that cater to natural hair for a reasonable price.


Don't hate the player, hate the game. Or in the alternative play the game, if it's what will rectify the problem. In this case, playing the economics game is the real answer.
 

Tracy

New Member
[ QUOTE ]
sassygirl125 said:
Well said, Tracy!


If I were the writer I'd be more upset about the fact that my stylist was gone when I had an appointment!


[/ QUOTE ]

You KNOW!
Now that's poor service...
 

shelli4018

Well-Known Member
I guess the issue I have is that we make a distinction between what naturally grows out of our heads versus chemically treated hair. It's like...we've forgotten ourselves. Forgotten what we look like. It isn't unreasonable to expect a hairstylist (of all people) to remember.
 

loverofnaps71

New Member
[ QUOTE ]
nbcgurl22 said:
[ QUOTE ]
tracyannette said:
Or most places I go tell me they will texturize it and it can still be natural (uhm...no)

Once I went to this salon just to get my hair trimmed. (I am also natural.) The stylist (black) spent at least 15 minutes explaining why I should get a texturizer. It was disheartening and I never returned to that salon.

One of the reasons why I joined this board is so that I could learn more about caring for black hair in general, whether relaxed or natural. I have learned more about haircare based on the information from this board that I have all my life.


So now instead of going to stylists, I have my sister trim my ends whenever needed. I have improved my diet, exercise, water intake, and supplements. I must say that my hair has never been healthier and I owe most of it to the board and support from you lovely ladies!
 

sassygirl125

Professional PJ
All stylists have to know how to cut and style straight hair in order to get a cosmetology license. IMO, it's not that they have forgotten themsleves. They just never learned.
And since 75%-80% (according to the book Brown Skin) of black women relax their hair, it makes sense (money-wise) that salons will reflect that. Which also explains why "natural hair specialists" can get away with charging outrageous fees.

I really need to learn how to cornrow and flat twist...
 

sassygirl125

Professional PJ
[ QUOTE ]
Once I went to this salon just to get my hair trimmed. (I am also natural.) The stylist (black) spent at least 15 minutes explaining why I should get a texturizer. It was disheartening and I never returned to that salon.

[/ QUOTE ]

I called a salon to order some products and the stylist kept me on the phone (long distance!) trying to sell me a relaxer because "natural hair snaps and breaks and can't grow long".
Funny--he also said that if I leave it in for under 10 minutes I would still be natural.
 

Tracy

New Member
Girl, if you got a license and charged reasonable prices at a natural salon in SC...you could be sitting in your 8 bedroom house right now chit chatting about hair while your natural hair salon chain (just think - a "supercuts type" natural salon...we need to talk, I'll handle the incorporation and legal paperwork and concerns, you oversee the services and the ambiance and throw your keen business sense into the mix...
unless you're a lawyer - and then there's no use for mem is there?
) makes millions of dollars of profits in a year.

It could be BIG THINGS.
 

shelli4018

Well-Known Member
Kind of reminds me of the chicken and the egg....Are we prone to straightening our hair because that's all we're offered? Or is the demand so great that other salon services have fallen away?

I can't imagine a white salon not offering services for plain old hair. Can you imagine 80% of them walking around with perms?

I think we've forgotten our hair.
 

Tracy

New Member
Now that natural stuff after putting on a texturizer is just HOOEY....

THAT you could (and should) sue for. You'd have to actually DO it...and be injured as a result...but that would be actionable I think. Lying is a whole 'nother thing altogether.
 

JenJen2721

New Member
[ QUOTE ]
sassygirl125 said:
[ QUOTE ]
Once I went to this salon just to get my hair trimmed. (I am also natural.) The stylist (black) spent at least 15 minutes explaining why I should get a texturizer. It was disheartening and I never returned to that salon.

[/ QUOTE ]

I called a salon to order some products and the stylist kept me on the phone (long distance!) trying to sell me a relaxer because "natural hair snaps and breaks and can't grow long".
Funny--he also said that if I leave it in for under 10 minutes I would still be natural.


[/ QUOTE ]

Whaaaattt!!!

 

kasey

Active Member
In my humble opinion, it really doesn't take more labor to do natural hair. When I was regularly going to a salon I would be in and out of the chair in the same time it took to style a relaxed client's hair. Similar tools and procedures are required.

After shampooing and conditioning, relaxed hair is detangled, and either blown dry, hot curled and styled or rollerset and styled.

After shampooing my hair the stylist would blow dry my hair, hot curl and style. For some naturally heads it is truly a fallacy that natural hair is difficult to comb and that you must use a pressing comb. Many stylists don't understand this and they make it much harder than it has to be because of their negative assumptions.
 

Tracy

New Member
ITA Kasey....I think that overall stylists are very misinformed about the truths and fallacies of natural hair. And some are just downright lazy. They assume it will take more work, and they do not want to be bothered.

You know what I think the other thing is...I think stylists know that relaxed hair has more potential for damage (read: they can damage it themselves without you ever realizing it) and then they can charge for things like "treatments" and trims.

Most stylists probably know that natural hair is not, from the outset, damaged and that they'll get you in the salon for special occasions and the occsional trim or deep conditioner but not much more. So the rationale goes, why bother to provide the service when I won't have a steady stream of business...also a fallacy I think.

I think a lot of naturals would love the option of having a stylist that they could trust provide them with regualr maintenance. The problem is many naturals feel that they can't try their hair with stylists, and many stylists have little expereince with natural hair so they don't provide good service. The result - a lack of demand. The effect of that - less natural stylists. The outcome - high prices...

Sad sad state of affairs. I wish starting a business were easier. Just seeing what my Momma's gone through I would love to see naturals recieve good quality services by stylists that they could trust, at a reasonable price.
Doesn't seem like much to ask.
 

kasey

Active Member
[ QUOTE ]
sassygirl125 said:
All stylists have to know how to cut and style straight hair in order to get a cosmetology license. IMO, it's not that they have forgotten themsleves. They just never learned.
And since 75%-80% (according to the book Brown Skin) of black women relax their hair, it makes sense (money-wise) that salons will reflect that. Which also explains why "natural hair specialists" can get away with charging outrageous fees.

I really need to learn how to cornrow and flat twist...

[/ QUOTE ]

Sassy

There are a few styists that do learn and realize that they need to be versatile. I used to go to training schools to get my hair done and I remember one instructor telling a student that she should learn how to do unrelaxed hair "because there is always going to be someone who comes into your salon wanting a press and curl."

I don't have experience with a lot of salons, but in one that I visited regularly in D.C. that primarily is a perm and weave shop, I was never turned away. I could tell that the stylist I saw hadn't seen a natural head in a long time, but she did a good job on my hair. She took a little extra time checking it out and even complemented me on the softness. (This was all before LHCF.) The last time I saw her she had gone natural. And people in the shop always seemed pretty interested in my hair. While Iisha was doing my hair all eyes (stylists and other clients) would be on me. Another stylist actually asked me if she could do my hair.

Tracy

I agree that litigation is not the answer. I think people should vote with their wallets and not patronize shops that charge extra fees for unrelaxed hair. I hope your mom didn't pay the $150. Before natural heads became cool, I used to get my hair done regularly at Marshall Fields salons and I never got charged a higher price.
 

sassygirl125

Professional PJ
[ QUOTE ]
just think - a "supercuts type" natural salon...we need to talk, I'll handle the incorporation and legal paperwork and concerns, you oversee the services and the ambiance and throw your keen business sense into the mix...

[/ QUOTE ]



You would definitely want me behind the scenes. I'd pop the first customer that got outta line. I have no patience for drama!

Columbia, SC is in desperate need of natural salons, though. The few I've peeked into seem to only do extension styles. I want to wear my own fluffy hair--puffs, twist-outs, etc. Most of the naturals I see wear elaborate braid styles or twa's...

I may have to fly to NYC to get a haircut!
 

Tracy

New Member
Sassy: Alright so you can handle ambience, marketing, decide on the business scheme and services provided - and....SECURITY!


Gotta have security girl....


P.S. - I'm a "popper" too - so maybe we should enlist the help of a cooler head....



Kasey: I didn't pay the $150 no... (incidentally the salon was CURVE in BROOKLYN and I want eveyone to KNOW because they SUCK! Ok that said...
) but I wasa little upset that I couldn't give my money to black women trying make it happen in a natural salon in NYC. That really upset me. I went to a Dominican salon - and whil;e they're my peeps too - they ALWAYS get my money because also provide more reasonably priced and better service to me as a relaxed head than black owned salons do. I wanted to give my money to a sister for a change. But when it came down to it, price won out. You know what's funny too - if Curve hadn't been QUITE so ridiculous I would have gladly given them say - $50 - to do what the Dominican salon did for $25 - just to put money in their pockets - for a change.
 

DDHair

New Member
I encountered this same thing with my beautician in Houston. When she relaxed my hair she did it beautifully, but when I came to her with more natural hair than relaxed hair, she was about to have a fit. Ironically, she has a girl who does natural hair in her salon (mainly braids and dreds) who has converted to relaxed hair because she liked my relaxed style, but when I came in unrelaxed that shocked them. But even the woman who had converted thought that once my beautician straightened my hair, it looked relaxed and she admitted to not being able to do that with her own hair. My beautician washing and straightening my hair did not take any longer than putting on a relaxer, sitting under the dryer, and styling my hair. I have timed beauticians who have had to hurry because I have other engagements or because they don't have other customers and it has taken no longer than 2-3 hours if that long to do my hair. I think on average it takes about 2 hours. I thought my beautician was avoiding my call, but it was confirmed when I asked her to straighten my hair after another stylist had straightened it (and I didn't like it), when she said are you still going natural?

Yesterday I had this very conversation with my sister, what if all of us began going natural, then these beauticians would have to get up on it.

Where did this article come from, because I want to respond to that lady on this type of discrimination. I think this article should become a public display about the attitudes and strange treatment given to natural hair. What's funny is, that salon says they don't do simply serve black people, but I bet that don't have a problem doing other races' natural hair.
 

joyous

Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
sassygirl125 said:
All stylists have to know how to cut and style straight hair in order to get a cosmetology license. IMO, it's not that they have forgotten themsleves. They just never learned.
And since 75%-80% (according to the book Brown Skin) of black women relax their hair, it makes sense (money-wise) that salons will reflect that. Which also explains why "natural hair specialists" can get away with charging outrageous fees.

I really need to learn how to cornrow and flat twist...

[/ QUOTE ]
Maybe learning to style natural hair, as well as straight hair should also be a requirement to receive a cosmetology license.
 

shelli4018

Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Tracy said:

You know what I think the other thing is...I think stylists know that relaxed hair has more potential for damage (read: they can damage it themselves without you ever realizing it) and then they can charge for things like "treatments" and trims.


[/ QUOTE ]

Oh! I think you hit the nail on the head!! You've summed up the whole thing in one lil' ol' paragraph.
 

shelli4018

Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
joyous said:
[ QUOTE ]
sassygirl125 said:
All stylists have to know how to cut and style straight hair in order to get a cosmetology license. IMO, it's not that they have forgotten themsleves. They just never learned.
And since 75%-80% (according to the book Brown Skin) of black women relax their hair, it makes sense (money-wise) that salons will reflect that. Which also explains why "natural hair specialists" can get away with charging outrageous fees.

I really need to learn how to cornrow and flat twist...

[/ QUOTE ]
Maybe learning to style natural hair, as well as straight hair should also be a requirement to receive a cosmetology license.

[/ QUOTE ]

I wonder, do white beauticians leave cosmetology school not knowing how to do their natural hair? That's like going to school but never learning your ABC's.
 
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