Hi Mahalialee,
Don't know if you got my email or not.
From the ingredients, this is very much like the ingredients in the Thermol Ionic Permanent products and the Wash and Wear Relaxer product. It is a perm really with a colorant added. Following is what I could find on each ingredient. You can determine what you think it is from the ingredients:
Hope this helps. And hope all of this copies...LOL!!! Take care and keep in touch.
"The active substances in the products of transformation of the Embelleze are tioglicolato of ammonia, acid pirogálico (henê) and calcium hidroxides(guanidina), lithium and sodium."
AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE
AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLATE
PRODUCT IDENTIFICATION
CAS NO. 5421-46-5
EINECS NO. 226-540-9
FORMULA HSCH2COONH3
MOL WT. 109.15
H.S. CODE 2930.90
TOXICITY
SYNONYMS Ammonium Mercaptoacetate; Mercapto-Acetic Acid;
Monoammonium Salt; Thioglycollic Acid, Ammonium Salt;
DERIVATION
CLASSIFICATION
PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL PROPERTIES
PHYSICAL STATE Colorless to faint pink liquid, characteristic sulfide odor
MELTING POINT -10 C
BOILING POINT 115 C
SPECIFIC GRAVITY 1.22
SOLUBILITY IN WATER Miscible
pH 5.5 - 6.5
VISCOSITY
AUILITY This ccompound is sensitive to heat.
Thioglycolic Acid (also called Mercaptoacetic Acid) and its derivatives are main materials for the synthesis of PVC-Stabilizers and are used as hair care products (waving, hair removal and hair straightening; and in shrink-resistant treatment of wool) ingredients. These compounds are also useful for down-hole acidizing and corrosion inhibition in the oil field industry.
http://www.crodausa.com/formulations/AmmThioHairRelaxerwithCroq.pdf
This may be the recipe you were looking for.
Synonyms and Trade Names: Ammonium mercaptoacetate; ammonium thioglycolate; ammonium thioglycolate; Thiofaco A-0; thioglycolic acid, ammonium salt. ...
ntp-
__________________
acid pirogálico (henê) or Pyrogallic acid
Lots of uses...reported as highly toxic...colors the hair various shades of brown similar to black walnut hull powder.
Pyrogallic acid, a developing agent, is a carcinogen and can cause severe skin damage. Avoid contact with skin, eyes, and clothing. Wear gloves and an apron. Amidol, another developer, causes severe skin and clothing stains. Wear gloves and an apron.
Irritant Poisons:
Common Non-Metallic Irritant Poisons. Pyrogallic Acid: Usage: Photographic Development, Hair Dyes and Inks.
____________________
jaborandi (the slobber) plant
The name "jaborandi" derives from an Amazonian word meaning "slobber weed", as the use of it causes intense salivation. Jaborandi, also known as alfavaca in parts of South America, is marketed in the United States and in Latin America as an ingredient in shampoo. In earlier times, Brazilians believed that if they applied jaborandi to their heads it would prevent baldness.
Same as Kudzu Root...Korean
Jaborandi ( Pilocarpus jaborandi: Local name: Indian Hemp.
CAUTION!! This herb is HAZARDOUS.
This plant is the source of pilocarpine. A hair tonic made from the dried leaves of this South American shrub, is used (externally) by the native peoples to open the scalp pores, with the aim of stopping premature baldness.
Once again we find an herb where Jethro Kloss' book "Back to Eden" offers up misleading information. Under the name "Indian Hemp" (but using the Latin name for Jaborandi), Kloss recommends using this herb to treat asthma and pleurisy. Jaborandi can SEVERELY AGGRAVATE these conditions!!
written by Camelia Kinslow
What on Earth is Japanese Hair Straightening?
Japanese Hair Straightening or Thermal Reconditioning is a method of permanently straightening or relaxing over curly hair. It is called "Japanese Hair Straightening" because this system originated in Japan. Unlike previous hair straightening methods used over the years, this Japanese Hair Straightening or Thermal Reconditioning system can be done on any hair type and can even be applied to hair that has been colored, treated with henna or lightened.
Ingredients
Ammonium thioglycolate is the main solution used in Japanese Hair Straightening or Thermal Reconditioning. This solution has a lower pH balance than the caustic sodium hydroxide or ammonium thioglycolate found in regular hair straightening products. Calcium hydroxide is also another ingredient used in regular hair straightening. It is not used professionally and is found in home care hair straightening products. Calcium hydroxide leaves the hair cuticle open and the hair feeling dry.The pH or potential hydrogen, is the measurement for the acid content in a solution. It is usually measured on a scale of 0.0 to 14. o; 0.0 being mild (acid) and 14.0 being corrosive (alkali). 7 is the neutral point as in the pH balance of distilled water. The ammonium thioglycolate used in Japanese Hair Straightening or Thermal Reconditioning has a pH balance of below 10.0; the exact figure varies, depending on the quality of the products. Better quality products have a lower percentage of active ingredient and lower pH balance of ammonium thioglycolate. This factor contributes a lot to the pricing of a Japanese Hair Straightening or Thermal Reconditioning service. Other factors considered in a good Japanese Hair Straightening or Thermal Reconditioning treatment include the application of expensive hair oils and proper equipment such as the use of correct thermal irons that can reach temperatures of up to 356 degrees Fahrenheit. ( I know what you are thinking about. Don't worry; a skilled technician will not burn your hair and these irons are designed not to damage your hair.)
From:
http://www.camspirit.com/JapaneseHairStraightening.html
CAUTIONS:
Doing the process on hair that shouldn’t be done to begin with. Interchanging Ammonium Thioglycolate with Hydroxide relaxer/straightener or the reverse would cause severe and irreversible damage to the hair. It can also cause you to get a chemical hair cut. Do not use Thioglycolate products on hair that has been previously straightened using a Sodium Hydroxide base (lye). Do not use on hair already relaxed with a “Sodium Hydroxide-free” (No-lye) product, such as a Potassium Hydroxide, Lithium Hydroxide or Guanidine Carbonate relaxer base. You need a good growing-out period and a hair cut to remove the hydroxide straightened areas.
Caution: A strand test or coating the hydroxide relaxed sections with special proteins, conditioners and acidifiers cannot and will not accurately judge the reaction you will have. Quite often breakage of the hair due to the mixing of thioglycolate and hydroxide does not occur immediately, it may take a week or longer to start. Regardless of this warning, you will find some stylists who’ll do just that! It’s not worth it.
Also referred to as Thio Relaxers.
___________
calcium hidroxides(guanidina) aka calcium hydroxide
If you are familiar with Wash and Wear Relaxer, it seems to be very similar to the Brazilian Hair treatment and product discussed. Check out the website page:
From:
http://www.jazma.com/faq.html
The "lye", "no lye" labels we believe are just an advertising angle. One chemical is sodium hydroxide, the others are typically calcium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or lithium hydroxide all members of the hydroxide family and all deemed caustics. By them not being the exact chemical sodium hydroxide or "lye" as it is more commonly known, the other relaxers formulated within this group of hydroxides get to call themselves "no lye", but they are all related products in the same family.
Is having a Wash & Wear Relaxer™ in my hair anything like a curly perm?
Yes and no. Yes by the low maintenance involved in the daily upkeep, it really is wash & go hair. Many of our clients tell us that the save hours a week not having to have their hair blow dried or set if the don't want to. They have the freedom to make the decision to style and wear their hair without a lot of fuss when they are wearing a Wash & Wear Relaxer™.
No, in two main facts; first with curly perms (curls) it is not recommended that you set or blow dry your hair frequently. Curly perms, also referred to as Jheri curls or body waves, are done using products that contain as their main active ingredient ammonium thioglycolate, this chemical can be extremely drying to hair. This dryness has to be compensated for with an abundance of maintenance products. It's from this over compensation with maintenance products from which curly perms have the reputation of being "greasy". Secondly, no in the fact that we don't use perm rods of any kind when we process the hair, just Kerasoft® Release® Conditioning Creme Relaxer using our processing methods to achieve our Wash & Wear looks.
______________
lithium and sodium Hydroxides
Again, these keep coming up in combination with the other ingredients for the Thermol Ionic Permanent Straightener hair treatment.
Hope this helps.
HennaJoy